Swimmin story

barfly · Since 31 Mar 2005 1216 Posts Portland BRACKISH

A couple times a season, I get to have a good long swim. Thought I'd share this one from yesterday due to its relatively long length and the time in the water afforded me time to reflect.

Work's been a bitch, I'm belittling my customers, and various other life issues so my choices were not good yesterday. Drizzly weather, flukey winds had already spoiled a downwind attempt late in the day. Slither had already settled for a landboard but the wind was coming back up so I rigged my 11 T3 and headed out front in Seaside on my surfboard.

First tack felt good, got out past the break but was getting further downwind towards the turnaround than I wanted. Jibed in and out of the break for a few nice turns and headed back out. Wind shut down on me off shore and I dumped my kite.

Those T3's relaunch real nice. Despite the lack of wind it would jump up out of the water but there wasn't enough to get it high enough in the window. Whenever a swell passed under me, it would push me towards the kite just enough to take the power out of it.

First things first. Loosened my harness. Swimming back into the break will requires lung capacity and I expected multiple dunkings. Relaunch attempts in light wind are exhausting so getting separated from your board happens. I kept an eye on it and occasionally would smim over and take a rest with it. The break zone is several hundred meters and the most critical. Patience and rest are important. I kept the kite in front of me on the outside breakers letting their strength pull the kite and also pull me. As the beach gets steeper and the waves crash, kite damage and getting pulled under unexpectedly means I had to ditch the kite.

I made it to the board, swung my spreader bar around and paddled for awhile but lost it in the turbulance and outside sets. Lots of rests during dunkings. Eventually, if the ocean is kind, you and your gear just get pushed in. The rip zone is the hardest for you b/c you are tired and the current is the strongest and waves hold you down in strange ways. Panic is not an option but don't let anyone tell you that it doesn't creep back there in the recesses of your head, especially as you tire. Made it in around Ave T.

Hope you didn't mind the long post and it might be helpful. Points are that the kite can be used as a rudder/anchor that pulls you to the breakzone and closer to the beach w/o having to swim, or try to pack it all up, and expend a lot of energy - save it for the swim through the waves. If you have a surfboard, stay close to it and keep in mind that if you have to make a decision to lose your kite or your board - let the kite go (I chose to save it all by getting everything into the waves but that decision may not always be the best).

Pray for wind and that the warden is full Razz

Kraemer · Since 24 Apr 2006 1736 Posts Sky Pilot Unicorn Captain

Nice post barfly. I've had a couple humbling moments like that too recently. Thanks for sharing! Glad you were able to Keep It Together--

chanson · Since 31 Jan 2006 1874 Posts WISCONSIN Chimey

thx for sharing..

I had a similar experience at Manzo this fall. Kite went down after wind did outside...stayed attached untill I was on the inside....waves took kite, tumbled, pulling me with it...once I tumbled a few times it was time to let it go...Eventually all the gear washed up as did I...But great words....staying calm is your friend for sure..!

I didn't think about turning the harness around all the way to the back though..good call.

surfboard and kite came back un-scathed...

I swore off going outside when it's a super-optimistic, light-wind session..but it is always so tempting..

pauls · Since 20 Jun 2005 564 Posts Northern Portugal Addicted

Good post! Glad you were dressed for being in the water a long time.

kyle.vh · Since 11 Jul 2007 713 Posts city of angels Addicted

I find that if I'm pinned underwater, counting slowing can calm you, and remind you that it's only been 20 seconds, or whatever, and that even though you want to breathe, you dont' really need to. Just a nice trick some aussie told me in costa rica I thought I'd share. This dude was going out in triple over head in the biggest swell I've ever seen (i was scared to be on the beach). He had to "hold on to the reef for up to a minute" in between waves to paddle out...
Thanks for the post, man. Its nice to know I'm not the only one who gets humbled out there. Good work staying calm and thinking it through.

pjc · Since 06 Mar 2005 649 Posts Addicted

good post. so was there much rip or did the big waves push you in nicely this time?

i haven't had a swim quite that long ever, but i know that feeling of "ho boy, it'd be nice to touch terra firma right about now"...

panic vs. mellow is huge with re: to lung capacity. relaxing your muscles and letting yourself rag doll seems to help the calmness. i like the counting trick, i'll try that in the future.

Gman · Since 11 Feb 2006 4911 Posts Portland Unstrapped

Great story Thumb's Up

Cool Man Barfly - when i mess up a jibe on the outside and am bodydragging for my surfboard - I count one mississippi, two...

- figure the sharks aren't going to get you if can pull it together in under 5 seconds

SL8r · Fri May 23, 08 10:10 am

Great tips Barfly!! I'll upload these to my ROM...

Glad you made it back.

barfly · Since 31 Mar 2005 1216 Posts Portland BRACKISH

Spike · Since 13 May 2007 1414 Posts Alameda Spelling Expert

broadbandito · Since 26 Apr 2005 342 Posts CSO headwaters WheatHead

Glad you're here to tell it. Good advice in the story. Much better than my standard technique of panicking, gulping salt, puking, and then feeling really lucky that I'm only in 3 feet of water! Laughing

It's a good motivator to spend some training time underwater.

tinyE · Since 21 Jan 2006 2004 Posts not really an XTreme Poster

yeah, it's funny...
just when you get comfy in the ocean, it reaches up and bites you on the arse...

I was in the similar situation with Chanson out at Manzanita...unfortunately, I had to cut the kite loose because it was dragging me out to sea... then, after I cut it loose, a big wave came and took it and drug it all the way to shore (the bar seemed to always be just 1" from my reach).

the big lesson is relax and rest when you can, and avoid panic. I remember swimming trying to body surf the break in, and then getting swallowed by waves... blah... no more light wind on the outside days for me.

undertow · Since 15 Feb 2008 371 Posts BeaversBurg Obsessed

Thanks for the story and the advice barfly

gabe · Since 16 May 2005 491 Posts Obsessed

good post. this is one situation where not wearing a surfboard leash is actually a concern. the whole idea of ditch the kite and paddle in on the board and use it for flotation doesn't work when it's likely to get ripped away in the breaks. then you are just left with nothing.

kyle.vh · Since 11 Jul 2007 713 Posts city of angels Addicted

yeah, I guess I am sometimes suprised, especially coming from a surfing background, that people don't wear leashes in the surf. In the columbia you can drag up to it. But in the ocean, it's just going to get washed up really quickly. But wearing it does have hazards, too. Man, its just dangerous to be kiting out there to begin with!

Pete · Since 29 Oct 2007 844 Posts Opinionated

I find this the most interesting thing about your post, as I have always been told, and from experience, to let go of your kite when it is in the surf, or it will rip.

"Points are that the kite can be used as a rudder/anchor that pulls you to the breakzone and closer to the beach w/o having to swim"

The last time I did this, the surf ripped my kite to shreds. Problem is, with the drag of your body, the water has no place to go when pulling on the kite, and rips out a panel.

I won't ever do that again. If I can't get the kite relaunched in the surf, and it is pulling hard enough to pull me in to the shore, I'm pulling the QR.

pdxmonkeyboy · Fri May 23, 08 11:55 am

it is definitely an eye opener when your in the break zone and your crumpled up kite wants to pull you out to sea. Staying calm is paramount but not always the easiest thing to do.

glad to hear everything worked out alright for you.