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Scratched Board

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Northwest Kiteboarding -> Gorge / Portland / Oregon Coast
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Pete

Since 29 Oct 2007
678 Posts

Addicted



PostFri Nov 30, 18 11:35 am    Scratched Board Reply with quote

I have some very light scratches on the bottom of a second hand board that I bought. Trying to figure out the best way to buff them out.

I tried automotive rubbing compound/wax, but didn't do much.

Any other suggestions?

They are the white scratches barely visible in this photo near the rail on the top of the photo.


   Red Amundson.jpeg 

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Sasquatch

Since 09 Mar 2005
1679 Posts
P-town
STACKED



PostFri Nov 30, 18 12:44 pm    Re: Scratched Board Reply with quote

Pete wrote:
I have some very light scratches on the bottom of a second hand board that I bought. Trying to figure out the best way to buff them out.

I tried automotive rubbing compound/wax, but didn't do much.

Any other suggestions?




Tenacious D Rocket sauce. TD is playing in Portland on Dec 15th and so you can get a fresh batch.


Link




Or if you don't want to try Rocket sauce, try a red sharpie pen.

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Windian

Since 28 Apr 2008
761 Posts
Newport, OR
Opinionated



PostFri Nov 30, 18 12:53 pm     Reply with quote

600 grit wet/dry sand paper and use water as lubricant. If that doesn't do it, then start with 400 grit wet/dry with water and then step up to 600 grit to finish it out.

Nice looking surfboard, the scratches are probably from carrying the board under your arm and the bottom of the board is rubbing against hard edges on your harness. I try to always carry my board with the deck against my body and harness for that very reason.

Question

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Pete

Since 29 Oct 2007
678 Posts

Addicted



PostFri Nov 30, 18 2:20 pm     Reply with quote

Windian wrote:
600 grit wet/dry sand paper and use water as lubricant. If that doesn't do it, then start with 400 grit wet/dry with water and then step up to 600 grit to finish it out.

Nice looking surfboard, the scratches are probably from carrying the board under your arm and the bottom of the board is rubbing against hard edges on your harness. I try to always carry my board with the deck against my body and harness for that very reason.

Question


Thanks, yeah, I agree, that's exactly how I think they got there. Previous owner mistakes. I always do the same.

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bwd

Since 04 Aug 2007
368 Posts

Obsessed



PostFri Nov 30, 18 5:39 pm     Reply with quote

Another technique that can work for “better” but not “factory” results is to mix up a tiny bit of clear epoxy and mix it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol. Typically resin suppliers spec no more than 5% solvent can be added, but that is based n maintaining some sfrength I think. 10% or so will make it pretty watery. Drop a little in the scratches and wipe/spread with a clean rag or even a paper towel.
Watch it like a hawk and when it starts to gel BUT HASNT GELLED YET wipe excess away with a clean cloth wetted with more solvent. Wipe till area around scratches is clean and dry to avoid smears etc. New shiny resin will remain in the scratches, more or less. It will be pretty effective (80-95%) hiding them.
Adavantages include filling any small cracks that may lurk among scratches with resin.
Disadvantages mainly that it may be still imperfect cosmetically...

This is also a good way to improve the cosmetics and smoothness of fins that get a rash of light scratches.

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Matt V

Since 26 Oct 2014
347 Posts
Summer- OR Coast, Winter - My van near good snow
Explosive Diarrhea



PostSat Dec 01, 18 9:57 am     Reply with quote

bwd wrote:
......mix up a tiny bit of clear epoxy and mix it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol.


Isn't Isopropyl alcohol like 9% water at best (I have only seen 99% isopropyl alcohol once in a store). Given that almost all epoxies are pretty allergic to water, would that not ruin the epoxy?

What grade of isopropyl alcohol are you using?

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Ho-Toe

Since 30 Apr 2014
140 Posts
thread-killer; non sequitur specialist
Upwelling Specialist



PostSat Dec 01, 18 3:34 pm     Reply with quote

Isopropanol is commonly available in a variety of concentrations, with 70% and 90-something% being most common (you never see 100% because it’s hygroscopic, absorbing water vapor as an impurity). Your choice of concentration should be dictated by what you wish to use it for:

For diluting epoxy (an application I wasn’t previously aware of—thanks BWD), you’d want to use a NEW BOTTLE of the most concentrated isopropanol you can get your hands on, because of the water business I mentioned above.

For sterilizing the diarrhea-splattered interior of one’s van, 70% is more appropriate. 70% isopropanol more effectively penetrates most bacterial cell walls, killing pathogens more effectively than stronger isopropanol does.

YMMV.

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bwd

Since 04 Aug 2007
368 Posts

Obsessed



PostSun Dec 02, 18 7:56 am     Reply with quote

91%, drugstore isopropanol
Works fine as epoxy additive for many months if not used up by then.
Never bothered trying to figure out how much moisture
it picks up from air in bottle.
Definitely does pick up water enough to be part of my jerry can cleaning procedure also, though.

Alcohols are effective and safer solvents for surfboard epoxy than acetone etc. Acetone and maybe some others not only dissolve the epoxy and hardener components, they can carry them through your skin leading to chemical sensitization and whatever else depending in what is in there. Epoxies can contain metal salts and other things I prefer not to absorb.

Up to 5% volume alcohol helps flow amd penetration by lowering viscosity and evaporates out ( at normal temps, 65F or so plus) before resin gels so strength is not hurt. Double that can be used to get a really thin epoxy glaze as described earlier, but the resulting epoxy will be a little porous and weaker. Shiny, though.

I usually use resin research epoxy which is made with hardeners that are less toxic and really try not to get it on skin.

Ethanol also works if you can get it in 90%+.

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