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Knots
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eric

Since 13 Jan 2006
1309 Posts

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PostSat May 19, 18 7:50 am    Knots Reply with quote

Trying to tighten my slider rope on my Rideengine harness. Using a figure 8 knot. Problem is it’s very difficult to get knot to snug up to the back of the bar as you tighten the rope. Any knots that are good for this and of course won’t slip?

Thanks,
Eric

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Gman

Since 11 Feb 2006
4747 Posts
Portland
Unstrapped



PostSat May 19, 18 10:21 am     Reply with quote

Aye, you want an oysterman's knot

https://www.animatedknots.com/ashleystopper/index.php




double check with the ride engine guys - not all knots stick in slippery dyneema - i would adjust the figure eight

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Ho-Toe

Since 30 Apr 2014
136 Posts
thread-killer; non sequitur specialist
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PostSat May 19, 18 3:34 pm    Super glue! Reply with quote

Thanks for that bit about the oysterman’s knot...

I’ve had decent luck with a plain ol’ overhand or figure 8 backed up with a couple drops of super glue. Of course, you wanna inspect your slider line frequently!

Have any of you NWkiters made Nak-style double-layered spliced lines for your spreader bars? How’d that work out? I’ve been intending to try this, but have yet to pull the trigger.

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aksurfer

Since 30 Aug 2010
90 Posts
Anchorage, AK
 



PostSat May 19, 18 4:09 pm     Reply with quote

I've been using a regular overhand knot with super glue gently manipulated in with a toothpick, no problems to date. Replace once a season and I'm using a 4m-7m a lot.

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bigjohn

Since 13 Mar 2012
385 Posts

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PostSat May 19, 18 6:28 pm    Re: Super glue! Reply with quote

Ho-Toe wrote:
Thanks for that bit about the oysterman’s knot...

I’ve had decent luck with a plain ol’ overhand or figure 8 backed up with a couple drops of super glue. Of course, you wanna inspect your slider line frequently!

Have any of you NWkiters made Nak-style double-layered spliced lines for your spreader bars? How’d that work out? I’ve been intending to try this, but have yet to pull the trigger.


Nak's writeup was impressive. I have made quite a few lines with that technique and am happy with the result. I messed around with different lengths just for kicks.

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Ho-Toe

Since 30 Apr 2014
136 Posts
thread-killer; non sequitur specialist
Upwelling Specialist



PostSun May 20, 18 6:03 am     Reply with quote

Thanks bigjohn. You have inspired me to find my fid and get after it...

Did you use the eye in the end of the splice in which you fold the spectra over & penetrate the hollow core of the braid to capture a little tiny shackle (ala dynabar) and use the hardware as a stopper, so you only have to tie one stopper knot?

Last edited by Ho-Toe on Sun May 20, 18 9:33 pm; edited 1 time in total

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bigjohn

Since 13 Mar 2012
385 Posts

Obsessed



PostSun May 20, 18 8:53 am     Reply with quote

Ho-Toe wrote:
Thanks bigjohn. You have inspired me to find my fid and get after it...

Did you use the eye in the end of the splice in which you fold the spectra over & penetrate the splice to capture a little tiny shackle (ala dynabar) and use the hardware as a stopper, so you only have to tie one stopper knot?


Yo Hoe-Toe,

Just re-read your message and I realized I had misread your original post.

I made a whole bunch of the the Center Line depower ropes using NAK's method. I did this years ago and made about about a dozen all at once. I haven't burned threw my stash yet.

That will teach me to skim posts....

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Kmun

Since 05 Jul 2009
170 Posts

Stoked



PostSun May 20, 18 11:39 am    Nak Rope / Knot Technique Reply with quote

Can someone provide the link to Nak's detail description to this "Nak-style double-layered spliced lines" dynema rope/knot/attachment technique?

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Ho-Toe

Since 30 Apr 2014
136 Posts
thread-killer; non sequitur specialist
Upwelling Specialist



PostSun May 20, 18 2:09 pm     Reply with quote

bigjohn wrote:
Ho-Toe wrote:
Thanks bigjohn. You have inspired me to find my fid and get after it...

Did you use the eye in the end of the splice in which you fold the spectra over & penetrate the splice to capture a little tiny shackle (ala dynabar) and use the hardware as a stopper, so you only have to tie one stopper knot?


Yo Hoe-Toe,

Just re-read your message and I realized I had misread your original post.

I made a whole bunch of the the Center Line depower ropes using NAK's method. I did this years ago and made about about a dozen all at once. I haven't burned threw my stash yet.

That will teach me to skim posts....


Hey bigjohn—no worries.

I’ll be the guinea pig. If I never post again, you’ll know it didn’t work out well. 😀

Nak’s awesome DIY tutorial: http://www.nwkite.com/forums/t-31373.html&highlight=

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wylieflyote

Since 30 Jun 2006
1258 Posts
Puget Sound & Wa. Coast
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PostSun May 20, 18 2:36 pm     Reply with quote

I'd like to shorten mine a bit but I can't see me getting my teeth back in there to chew on the knot. Smile
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bwd

Since 04 Aug 2007
366 Posts

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PostSun May 20, 18 5:22 pm     Reply with quote

When you value your teeth and nails and don’t have room to lay knotted line flat on a hard surface and roll over it with something hard (tool handle, block of wood, etc. ) until it loosens, vise-grip pliers gently applied work wonders. If overly concerned with line damage, use a piece of leather or heavy cloth between the vise-grips and the line.
If you do it every day, grind the teeth off a pair of vise-grips or buy the smooth kind if you can find them.
I took 1/2-1” of slack out of my 2017 carbon ride engine sliding spreader bar this way a couple months ago and it worked great. I didn’t bother padding the pliers, since I don’t think a little fraying in the knot is critical for the application and I will change it out periodically anyway. So far so good, but only a few sessions.
Will try to remember to update this when I do replace it, maybe next winter or spring...
Feel free to remind me if I forget....
Psyched for summer, good winds to all!!

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Ho-Toe

Since 30 Apr 2014
136 Posts
thread-killer; non sequitur specialist
Upwelling Specialist



PostSun May 20, 18 7:04 pm    Another useful knot-pickin’ tool Reply with quote

bwd wrote:
When you value your teeth and nails and don’t have room to lay knotted line flat on a hard surface and roll over it with something hard (tool handle, block of wood, etc. ) until it loosens, vise-grip pliers gently applied work wonders.


A small marlinspike (like on a sailor’s knife) is also extremely useful for this task. Make sure it’s got a nice smooth surface, free of nicks & burrs...

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Mlander

Since 06 Oct 2010
28 Posts
Mosier, Or
 



PostMon May 21, 18 6:32 am    Ashley Stopper knot Reply with quote

Interesting information about the figure 8 knot and its slippage. I'm hesitant to switch from a figure 8 unless I know it works. Can anyone comment on the Ashley Stopper knot that's used it for a while in this application?

Thanks

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happycamper

Since 11 Jul 2012
39 Posts
white salmon
 



PostMon May 21, 18 8:32 am     Reply with quote

I have tightened my 2018 rope 3x already, finally got the figure 8 tight and put an over hand knot behind it, so far no slippage and that includes Tue- Thu last week.

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bigjohn

Since 13 Mar 2012
385 Posts

Obsessed



PostMon May 21, 18 9:21 am     Reply with quote

wylieflyote wrote:
I'd like to shorten mine a bit but I can't see me getting my teeth back in there to chew on the knot. Smile


I don't own a ride engine rope harness, so at risk of embarrassing myself twice on the same thread ...

Could a person place some sort of metal tightening contraption on the inside layer of the bar.

Perhaps something along the lines of a turnbuckle like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Turnbuckle-Jaw/dp/B01D7ZH69W/

I'm just throwin out ideas here...


   rde38003-1.jpg 
   41e8hCH0aqL.jpg 

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Nak

Since 19 May 2005
3590 Posts
Camas
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PostWed May 23, 18 1:39 pm    Re: Nak Rope / Knot Technique Reply with quote

Kmun wrote:
Can someone provide the link to Nak's detail description to this "Nak-style double-layered spliced lines" dynema rope/knot/attachment technique?


http://www.nwkite.com/forums/t-31373.html

Very Happy

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Ho-Toe

Since 30 Apr 2014
136 Posts
thread-killer; non sequitur specialist
Upwelling Specialist



PostThu Jun 07, 18 8:45 pm    one other little thing Reply with quote

Just for grins, the last time I replaced my spreader line (Dynabar) I experimented with using a larger diameter line, basically the biggest diameter stock I could jam thru the holes in the spreader bar. I believe it came with something like ~3/16", but I bumped it up to ~1/4" Amsteel blue. I was a bit concerned at first about how it rode in the dynabar pulley (the diameter was a little bigger than the groove in the sheave), but when it gets wet and gets a little use, the line tends to flatten out enough that it rides in the sheave just fine. The larger diameter line has more fibers per strand, so therefore it wears better than my original line did. There is noticeably less fraying at the ends where the line passes thru the holes in the ends of the spreader bar. Less fraying = safer & longer service life.

YMMV... Cool

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