Tuning at the kite vs. the bar?

dcfordo · Since 19 May 2011 60 Posts The Dalles

I have read posts in the past that recommend different settings based on attaching to different knots on the kite. I understand why this would be useful to correct for uneven or stretched lines, but on properly tuned lines, why would this be better than just using the depower strap on the bar?

Weaz · Since 23 May 2012 360 Posts Beaverton Obsessed

I'm assuming that you are just talking about the knots on the pig-tales not the connection points on the kite.

One thing you can't do at the bar is make the front lines longer (without moving your floats), which you could at the kite (up to 4 inches in some cases). if my kite is at the very bottom of it's wind range i'll change my kite tuning to open it up by moving to the closest to the kite knot at the front and farthest knot on the rear. Actually I got this backwards it should be farthest on front lines shorter on rear. Also changing the front/rear lines by one knot, say they are an inch apart, equals two inches of trim.
This however makes the kite fly like crap when the wind gets into the normal range.

Knowing how your kite handles in the wind that your going out in is the key. Finding that "sweet spot" for your kite flying in most conditions is where you want to have your tuning set 90% of the time. Use the trim a little if you need it. Hell some kites only have one knot on each pigtail.

You could always use the knots on your outside lines on the bar to tune also, but honestly having the adjustment available at the kite is easier.

if you are talking about pig-tail placement on the kite there is no way you can do it at the bar.[u]

dcfordo · Since 19 May 2011 60 Posts The Dalles

Right, that pretty much answers my question. Yes, I was referring to the pigtail knots, not the attachment points.

I didn't realize that making the center lines longer was ever a good idea. Even in light wind, I figured that would just cause a lot of back stalling.

So people recommending the reverse are wrong. Correct? (i.e. shorter center lines attached closer to the kite)

I would think there would be no advantage, and possibly a disadvantage if the wind died and you wanted more power. (again assuming even, non-stretched lines)

Weaz · Since 23 May 2012 360 Posts Beaverton Obsessed

honestly it depends the kite.... as i stated when the wind picks up to normal it starts flying like crap with the 2011 KeyHD I currently fly. And yes I have to pay attention to the back stalling a bit more and make sure i don't choke the kite out, but have learned to just keep the kite moving and it doesn't seem to have much of an issue. then again it may just be the kite i have.

My normal setup is middle on the steering lines, and "longest" knot on the front lines (keychain bars have knots on the front lines with the kite having the larks-head pigtails) with about 1/2 inch of trim (because it's a pain to depower without having a little bit of trim).

My recommendation would be to go out for a few tacks, land, adjust, go back out for a few tacks... you'll find what you like. Then when the wind isn't as nice you can do the same thing... then the next time your out you'll immediately know how to set up your kite for the conditions you are in.

Weaz · Since 23 May 2012 360 Posts Beaverton Obsessed

If you are talking about the gorge, the majority of people are right in saying rig with shorter front lines... it helps eat the gusts.

ldhr · Since 21 Jul 2009 1490 Posts Hood River XTreme Poster

Neutral rigging - all lines same length.
there are 2 reasons to modify the line lengths by using different knots on the pigtail.
1. You want to rig the kite for 'extra' or 'less' power.
2. you have either long or short arms.

Rig with back lines longer than front (multiple ways to accomplish this)
Longer back lines effectively sheets out (depowers the kite).
This is appropriate if you think you will be overpowered.
Also good for people with short arms (able to ride with bar closer to body).

Rig with back lines shorter than front (multiple ways to accomplish this)
Shorter back lines effectively sheets the kite in (powers up the kite)
This is appropriate if you think you will be underpowered.
Also good for people with long arms( don't need to sheet in so much).

Shortening or lengthening the back lines (or front lines - same effect) is also accomplished by using the kite's depower strap.

There's much more to rigging your kite. Shortening or lengthening your back lines also effects where the kite sits in the window. That's advanced rigging and if you're interested in that.... you probably don't need to read this thread as you've already experimeted with these settings.

Weaz · Since 23 May 2012 360 Posts Beaverton Obsessed

nice summary idhr.

One thing to pay attention to though is how the kite behaves in the wind no matter how you rig. if it begins back stalling too much you're rigged for too much power. Depower it a bit or change the rigging. If you set up your kite with too much depower you could also run into issues if the wind starts dying.

basically if you are pushing your kite to the extremes of it's wind range you'll want to adjust it at the kite. The best option is to rig up a larger or smaller kite (if you have one available).