Learning to surf

stringer · Since 31 Jul 2007 694 Posts Chucktown Flying Tomato

So I'm learning to surf here in Oahu. I've been out on the 9' soft top boards (sweet $5 rental boards)
Now I'm wondering what kind of board I should get to really get into it.
Also I could use some info on some beginner friendly spots.
Thanks

Scriffler · Since 03 Jul 2005 581 Posts LYLE Addicted

Get a mini tanker around 8 feet. Some people will tell you to go shorter, but without a solid foundation for a few years on a big board, you will be just another kook clogging the lineup. Depending on your time on the water and natural ability, this could be a much shorter time. If you are in Hawaii(or somewhere warm with waves, surfing all day, everyday) you can progress really fast in a few years and be ripping.

DrewB · Since 16 Aug 2006 384 Posts PDX Obsessed

Welcome to the club Stringer!

I've got to disagree with Scriffler.

Get a few waves on the big soft top and then start trending towards a shortboard.
I'd start with something in the 6' 8" range with a little width and volume.
Longer boards are fun and easy, but also easy to get stuck on.
Shortboards are really tough, but once get the hang of it the rewards are worth it.
Since you are living in a wave-rich area and surfing warm water, I think you'll find it a lot easier to progress compared to Oregon.
The thick wetsuit and lack of consistant clean surf make the learing curve pretty long around here.
Find a mellow break and learn the rules.

Chooch · Mon Aug 22, 11 3:07 pm

Just remember that Locals Rule!

Link

Scriffler · Since 03 Jul 2005 581 Posts LYLE Addicted

Well, go ahead and try the shortboard. Have fun clogging the lineup kooking it while people who have dedicated their lives to surf well have to dodge you.

forrest · Mon Aug 22, 11 3:52 pm

Yea, the biggest thing is to surf where it's appropriate for your level. You're going to need to surf daily. You're not going to be strong enough to paddle a short-board for at least 6 months if you're surfing 3 to 5 times a week. Since you're going to be riding mellow waves I'd say go for a 8 foot funboard, surf it for 2 to 3 months, then drop down to the 7 foot range, 2 to 3 months, rinse/repeat.

Smile, have fun, encourage others, and make sure you always look towards the peak before you drop in as there might be someone deeper than you.

Windian · Since 28 Apr 2008 901 Posts Newport, OR NEWPORT OG

A lot of board choice depends on age, weight, flexibility and natural athletic ability. If you are in your 20's to early 30's and weigh less than 170 lbs and are fit like a chimpanzee, then you could eventually end up surfing on a short board like what the pros ride. But, it is still best to learn the fundamentals of catching and riding waves on a bigger funboard or a longboard.

If you don't fit the physical description above, don't even mess with the shortboards as you will just get frustrated and rarely catch waves along with looking and feeling like a kook. However, if you put a kite in your hands, then the sexy little shortboards can be ridden by even older guys with extra pounds.

boardrider · Since 05 Apr 2006 1034 Posts Ventura, CA XTreme Poster

Well - I see it a little different than these guys, but also know Drew knows what's up.

When you are starting out you have two major things to work on: 1 strength 2 how & when to catch the wave.

1. Strength. You need to be fairly strong & efficient to paddle a short board - Work on you're strength until you feel confident in it before you transition to a shorter board. Start of at a 'mellow' break to work on your strength - Big days at big breaks are usually crowed days - Not the time or place to work on paddling ..

2. How & when to catch the wave. Takes time to find that sweet spot. Once again, a fairly mellow break is the best to start & best to pick times that are less crowded if possible. Make your mistakes here where the consequences are minimal. Taking off too deep on a steep & hollow wave can hurt.

Watching & riding waves will help you judge the level of difficulty of a wave on that particular day & whether or not you can handle it. That isn't always obvious, even to seasoned kiteboarders.

Starting off in more mellow conditions (smaller & softer breaking waves, less crowded) will allow you to make mistakes with less consequence to both yourself & other surfers. Once you progress, hit the better breaks on bigger days when it's not as crowded & get it dialed in .. A kook in the line up on a good, crowded day is like a kook in the sand bar kiddie pool on a good, crowded day. And as scriff said, watch out for & give respect to the regular locals .. Surfline has the scoop on many breaks & is a good place to start, or talk w/ the guys at your local shop.

Long board / short board ? Who gives a shit - whatever is good for the day ..

undertow · Since 15 Feb 2008 371 Posts BeaversBurg Obsessed

Surfing sounds hard, as long as your having fun

DrewB · Since 16 Aug 2006 384 Posts PDX Obsessed

A bunch of good points here.

This probably won't apply to Stringer for a long time
....but if you want to surf on a regular basis, DON'T HAVE KIDS!
They make it really hard to chase waves.

OG · Since 07 Jun 2011 597 Posts Addicted

i always just tell people to go with what they can paddle fast enough to catch a wave.

genek · Since 21 Jul 2006 2165 Posts East Po KGB

I think lots of guys enjoy fishes from bit below 7' to 7'8" or so. Probably be a bit more work to get started on, but more maneuverable than a big board and still decent float. Either that or just paddle in your SRT for the full workout.

stringer · Since 31 Jul 2007 694 Posts Chucktown Flying Tomato

Thanks for the tips.
I like the idea of the 8' funboard and working my way down.
The big soft tops were retarded easy. You can ride half a ripple on those.
Strength seems like the biggest thing to work on, especially after my shoulder injury.
Been working with resistance bands to rehab the shoulder, but are there any good workouts to fill in the gap between sessions especially when I'm underway on the submarine? Or is it a better idea just to go paddle my nuts off even if there are no waves?
I'm going to be wicked busy getting qualified/going out to sea for a while (like my whole enlistment) so I won't be able to get out all the time, and I'll still need to get my kite on.

barfly · Since 31 Mar 2005 1214 Posts Portland BRACKISH

Swimming
Pull ups
Push ups
Sit ups - core is important

I think the 8' is a good call because you can practice both kinds of entry; paddling to get up to the speed of the wave (long board) and paddling to the spot where the wave will break and getting to your feet as it crests (short). For the islands look for a board with a pulled tail so it can handle some steeper faces.

bwd · Since 04 Aug 2007 385 Posts Obsessed

barfly says it well.
The longboard is your friend because it gives you more time on the wave, and that's where you learn most.
The other place you learn a lot is on the beach.
Time spent watching and seeing how the break works is well spent and can save you lots of paddling energy.

Nak · Tue Aug 23, 11 7:28 am

There's a good spot at Kaneohe Marine base. Only military can access it, so it's a lot less crowded than other breaks of equal quality. (Often, you'll have it to yourself. )

Summer in Waikiki is pretty good for a beginner too. Out in front of Dukes it's crazy crowded, but if you walk up the beach you'll find waves devoid of riders as well.

Gman · Since 11 Feb 2006 4911 Posts Portland Unstrapped

listen to the boardrider and the barfly

- I like my 7'5 Surftech Huevos - surfing is easy, the paddling and not drowning parts most challenging...