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Trim line broke, 2009 Naish bar hole edge problem ??
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jeremy

Since 18 Aug 2006
276 Posts
Manzo & HR
Obsessed



PostWed Aug 19, 09 12:04 pm    Trim line broke, 2009 Naish bar hole edge problem ?? Reply with quote

My trimline broke yesterday, then my SLE kite instantly went in to a death spin, ended up needing to hit the QR on my chickenloop and then on my leash, I guess this is what happens with SLE kites, wow, way different than breaking a trim line on a C kite, I'm not going to let my trimline get wornout again !

I knew the trimline was worn, my fault for not replacing it, but I only had about 20 sessions on this bar. My previous Naish bars would last way longer than this, made me wonder if there is a problem with my bar hole creating excessive wear on the trim-line. I inspected it and the edge at top of the hole appears sharp, like it wasn't smoothed out. Are these bars supposed to be like this ??? I'm going to try smoothing out the bar myself with a Dremel, so the next trimline I put in there will last longer, any suggestions on anything to avoid doing ??

I cannot find the posting on how to use Amsteel line to double back into itself to make an eye (I need an eye at one end to connect to smart loop), any pointers. I'd like to use Amsteel, what size should I buy ??

Thanks

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Chooch

Since 18 Nov 2007
1871 Posts
Wicked Pissah
Boston Tea Bagger



PostWed Aug 19, 09 12:28 pm     Reply with quote

We need an "Ask Nak" section of the forum for all things related to fixing and tuning up your kite Cool

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Bettyboarder

Since 18 Mar 2005
1823 Posts
PDX/ White Salmon
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PostWed Aug 19, 09 1:30 pm     Reply with quote

From Nak pasts posts

I did a thread on here on how to make a new depower rope, but I can't find it? Anyways, it's not all that hard. Get some 3/16"Amsteel. Tie an overhand knot about 5 inches from one end. Make a splice like you were making a loop, except make it right at the base of the knot. Now you have a knot at one end of the rope with 5" of doubeled up line. Cut the line at least a good foot longer than your current rope. Look how your old rope is installed. take it apart and install your new rope. (The knot ends up at the bearing in the chicken loop.) Once you've tuned your bar mark the Rope where it goes in to the cleat so you know where to cut the rope. Double up the line where it goes through the grab handle. (The thingy you grab to depower...)

http://www.nwkite.com/forums/t-10333.html&highlight=amsteel

http://www.nwkite.com/forums/t-7571.html&highlight=rev+pulley

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Bettyboarder

Since 18 Mar 2005
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PDX/ White Salmon
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PostWed Aug 19, 09 1:31 pm     Reply with quote

A "how to" section might be nice

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Nak

Since 19 May 2005
4297 Posts
Camas
Site Lackey

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PostWed Aug 19, 09 1:38 pm     Reply with quote

Chooch wrote:
We need an "Ask Nak" section of the forum for all things related to fixing and tuning up your kite Cool


LOL Very Happy

Hey Jeremy!

It isn't hard at all. You'll need a fid, which you can buy or make yourself. All it is for this size line is a 12 " piece of steel rod that's rounded on one end. Let's say the eye will be 2" long and the splice will be 10" long. Make a mark on your line 10" from the end. That will be the section that's buried in the line. Make another mark 2" further up, that's the end of the eye. Make another mark 2" further up. That's the bottom of the eye. Make another mark 14" up. That's the last mark. Insert the round end of your fid into the rope at the bottom of the eye mark. Leave a couple of inches out. Tape the end of the line to the protruding end of the fid. Don't go over board on the tape. The end of the rope and the end of the fid will but up against each other with no overlap. This junction has to be as thin as possible or it won't feed through the rope. Now you feed the fid through the rope and have it exit at the last mark. Pull it through till the end of the rope exits. Cut the end of the rope at a 45 degree angle, right at the end. Line the eye up so it's the size you want and smooth out the line.

This sounds more difficult than it is. It really helps to see it done once. If you go to a place like West Marine to buy your amsteel, they can show you how it's done.

For maximum strength you should taper the line rather than cutting the end at a 45 degree angle. However the strength of the line is way overkill for our use. Eventually, the line probably would fail at the point where the end of the line is buried, since it's not tapered. In actual use though, the line will wear out before significant wear occurs at this point.

You'll need to lockstitch the splice as shown here:

http://www.nwkite.com/forums/t-11649.html

I think Naish uses 3/16" Amsteel, but I'm not certain.

A really, really great substitute for 3/16" amsteel is 1/8" amsteel doubled up. Made the same way as a splice, it's just that the splice is about 6 feet long! Also not hard to do, you end up with a dual layer rope. If the outer case wears through & breaks, you can limp in on the inner core! As an added benny, it wears better than 3/16" line, I think because it ends up with a tighter weave?

If you're bar insert is sharp, it will definitely wear your rope down prematurely. You might want to check with Naish for a warranty replacement...

Good luck!

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jks313

Since 16 Aug 2009
6 Posts

Kook



PostWed Aug 19, 09 7:53 pm    Naish Bars Reply with quote

I know this won't be much help, but I can commiserate. My first center-line failure on a Naish bar was in 2001 on my AR5 15m. I've had one after that as well, but began paying close attention to the condition of that line. It seems that Naish is continuing to build bars that saw through this line, even today. I always liked how my Naish's flew, but have forever cursed their bars, and not just because of the deficiency mentioned above. I have since gravitated to Slingshot, primarily for their bars (not perfect, but very close to it). Others are good too, but without a doubt (in my opinion) Naish has always produced an inferior bar & lines system.

JK

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Chooch

Since 18 Nov 2007
1871 Posts
Wicked Pissah
Boston Tea Bagger



PostWed Aug 19, 09 7:57 pm     Reply with quote

Another good idea for extending the life of your depower line is rub paraffin wax on it ever 2-3 sessions. Keeps the wear down over the life of the bar.

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kitezilla

Since 22 Jun 2006
453 Posts
gorge
Obsessed



PostThu Aug 20, 09 6:09 am     Reply with quote

If you use the big spectra rope, like 3/16 inch, you can use a straight hemostat, instead of a fid to pull the rope back inside itself, in order to make the "eye" splice. Just slip the closed hemostat up through the center of the rope and then open it to grab the loose end, and close it and pull the end back through the center of the rope. You can do this multiple times to achieve a longer splice.

If you are going to buy fids, I like to order them from "Tow Me Up".

http://www.towmeup.com/splicing.html

They make their fids out of knitting needles and tap the cut end so that the spectra screws in to the end.

Nak, what is your source for fids? Have you found a size that works well for the 1/8 inch spectra?

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Nak

Since 19 May 2005
4297 Posts
Camas
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PostThu Aug 20, 09 7:20 am     Reply with quote

I just use stainless steel rod from a hardware store. I cut a piece about 12" long and grind it round on one end. I found that a round (semi-spherical) end works a lot better than a tapered end on amsteel. As far as size, I stay a bit under the diameter of the line. For 1/8" line (.125") I use rod around .11" in diameter. .125" rod will work, but it's a little tight. .09" rod will work, but it tends to slide out of the braid too easily.

There's a couple of pics on the TowMeUp.com site that illustrate making an eye:


   splice3.jpg 
   splice4.jpg 

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jeremy

Since 18 Aug 2006
276 Posts
Manzo & HR
Obsessed



PostThu Aug 20, 09 12:43 pm     Reply with quote

Hi.

Thanks for all the tips / pointers. Now I know how to make a new trim line for my bar.

Regarding the splice length, the original bar only had like 5" with lots of lockstitching, I like the sound of 10" better, and I'll try to taper it as best as I can. I saw on utube how to splice flying lines with a micro braiding tool (fixmykite.com) and they spliced 9" with a in-out weave. Is there any info anywhere on the optimal lengths to splice line, it seems pretty subjective.

In preparation for my new trimline, I smoothed out the rough edges on the hole, so hopefully I'll have less wear. Here's the after picture.

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wylieflyote

Since 30 Jun 2006
1648 Posts
Puget Sound & Wa. Coast
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PostThu Aug 20, 09 1:44 pm     Reply with quote

kitezilla wrote:
you can use a straight hemostat, instead of a fid


Will a roach clip work?

Embarassed

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kitezilla

Since 22 Jun 2006
453 Posts
gorge
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PostThu Aug 20, 09 2:52 pm     Reply with quote

Yeah, they work great..................Oh, you mean...as a fid?

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blowhard

Since 26 Dec 2005
2027 Posts

Windward



PostThu Aug 20, 09 6:07 pm     Reply with quote

on the subject of trim line rough openings
I fly 4 line single trim line kites.

The first thing I do is file the steel ferrel with a jewelers file
then when the metal wears out I remove it and replace it with
maleable stainless steel pipe from the steel supply shop
I then take a tapered punch and flare the ends while in the bar
being careful to not strike the interior of the ferrel
the new insert usually lasts
I use 1/4" spectra for trim line

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jeremy

Since 18 Aug 2006
276 Posts
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PostFri Aug 21, 09 9:13 pm     Reply with quote

The Naish bar's got an aluminum hole insert. On the old bars, I would wear the plastic insert out and then the rope would start wearing into the carbon bar itself. I thought the metal inserts stopped this, but I guess they wear too, just not as fast.

Can we get some pics of your homemade insert, sounds very cool !!

I purchased a new trimline, decided to use the parts from my old line to make a spare, so now I'm not rushed for time to make my trimline from scratch. The new one is only spliced 2". The old one was spliced 4". The one I'm going to make will be spliced 10" and better tapered. Guessing Naish figured out 2" was enough, seems pretty minimal ! Thoughts ?

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C Johnson

Since 17 Apr 2009
854 Posts
Seattle
Opinionated



PostWed Aug 26, 09 10:34 pm     Reply with quote

where abouts did you purchase the new line from?

how much did it set you back? I'm thinking about picking up one of these as a spare since I'm a little hesitant to dive into splicing and stitching my own lines Embarassed

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jeremy

Since 18 Aug 2006
276 Posts
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PostWed Aug 26, 09 11:17 pm     Reply with quote

I ordered it from BigWinds in Hood River. They shipped and I got it the next day.

Total with shipping was $41.

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kiteboards

Since 19 Mar 2009
47 Posts

 



PostThu Aug 27, 09 12:34 am     Reply with quote

Nice one, thanks for posting this. Very helpful Smile
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