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stevegriffith22
Since 14 May 2006
434 Posts
Obsessed
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 Wed Aug 19, 09 11:31 am |
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opps  I meant in front fo the two black stoper balls , kill the kite every time.
sg 
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mschulz
Since 29 May 2007
530 Posts
Reno, NV
Addicted
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| Wed Aug 19, 09 11:47 am |
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Sorry I do not have a better close up of the top ring. They are 07 bars and the smart loop conversion kit attaches below the top ring. I modified your pic.
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img_3594_814.jpg |
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MS |
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mikeinhoodriver
Since 23 Apr 2009
442 Posts
down wind somewhere
Obsessed
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| Wed Aug 19, 09 2:03 pm |
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Can I do that without the smartloop conversion?? Just run an extension through bar and terminate with ring at the small loop on the chicken loop? 
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mschulz
Since 29 May 2007
530 Posts
Reno, NV
Addicted
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| Wed Aug 19, 09 3:27 pm |
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Yes, like I said it will only cause problems when you start spining the bar in kite loops or down looping.
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MS |
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jsj
Since 11 Sep 2006
83 Posts
Hood River
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| Wed Aug 19, 09 3:38 pm |
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Make certain that not only does the line end fit through the bar, but also at least 15' feet of line can feed through the bar when you pull it.
If it doesn't do this, the kite won't flag out properly. It looked like at least one of the photos posted, the line extension just connected to the existing ring. This will get you killed as the ring won't go through the bar, and you'll only get about 3' of travel on your release.
Remember that the basic idea here is to hold onto the kite by exactly one line, with no tension whatsover on the other three. The bar MUST be able to freely travel towards the kite. This allows the kite to go completely flat.
I've got the same bar, no smart loop, and I just use a longer leash (older Naish leases were too short). Works great...
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mschulz
Since 29 May 2007
530 Posts
Reno, NV
Addicted
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| Wed Aug 19, 09 4:02 pm |
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| jsj wrote: | Make certain that not only does the line end fit through the bar, but also at least 15' feet of line can feed through the bar when you pull it.
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This is why you want to attach it to the top ring with a larks head style knot so it will slip easily through the bar. Do not tie it with a knott or other link.
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MS |
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jsj
Since 11 Sep 2006
83 Posts
Hood River
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| Wed Aug 19, 09 5:19 pm |
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so you're saying the red plastic knob will go through the center of your bar, freely?
I find that a bit hard to believe TBH, but OK.
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mikeinhoodriver
Since 23 Apr 2009
442 Posts
down wind somewhere
Obsessed
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| Wed Aug 19, 09 6:11 pm |
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| ....yeah... i follow what needs to happen..... think simply extending my leash or getting a longer one might be the simplest option.
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mschulz
Since 29 May 2007
530 Posts
Reno, NV
Addicted
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| Thu Aug 20, 09 6:57 am |
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| jsj wrote: | so you're saying the red plastic knob will go through the center of your bar, freely?
I find that a bit hard to believe TBH, but OK. |
That stopper ball (red plastic knob) goes the opposite direction of the bar. When you eject it heads up the front line for the kite not the bar.
Mike, extending your leash is the fastest and cheapest. I think it cost me $.50 for the extra line.
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MS |
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Nak
Since 19 May 2005
4316 Posts
Camas
Site Lackey
CGKA Member
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| Thu Aug 20, 09 7:52 am |
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| mschulz wrote: |
That stopper ball (red plastic knob) goes the opposite direction of the bar. When you eject it heads up the front line for the kite not the bar. |
I can see where that would work, If the steel ring is small enough to feed through the bar easily. On the bar I was using, there wasn't enough room in the center hole for this to work. With the two pieces of amsteel already feeding through, there's barely room for the connection between the safety line & the front line. This might work on Mike's setup, because it only has the one piece of rope through the bar.
The one thing I'd caution is to make sure everything feeds without any kind of snag. If you look at the Slingshot system, they use a spliced, sleeveless, line. That's because the sewn end on a standard kiteline can hang up at a critical moment. By using spliced, sleeveless lines with no leader, and a spliced, sleeveless, safety line, there's no edge anywhere to catch on anything. This way, even if your lines have 5 or 6 twists in them, the safety still works.
I think that would be my worry with this setup. It might very well work most of the time, but I'd worry that it might hang up under certain circumstances. I really have no idea. To be safe, you'd need to do what Slingshot & the other manufacturers do; go out and dump the kite to the safety dozens, or hundreds, of times. You'd want to introduce any variable you might encounter in actual use, like twisted lines. I haven't tried this, so I don't know, but my first gut thought is that if the safety line was twisted around the center rope a couple of times the ring would hang up in the twist and fail to feed. If that happened the kite could enter a continuous loop... Like I said, I don't know, I could easily be wrong. The only way to know would be to test it numerous times.
EDITED to fix quote.
Last edited by Nak on Thu Aug 20, 09 8:21 am; edited 2 times in total |
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jsj
Since 11 Sep 2006
83 Posts
Hood River
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| Thu Aug 20, 09 8:12 am |
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Nak-
Well said. Mschultz' bar, with the smart loop, has a much bigger slot in it than the 2007 bar has. Blindly following his advice would get you 3' travel on the safety...
Until I upgraded to a different brand kite, I just used the longer leash.
-John
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mikeinhoodriver
Since 23 Apr 2009
442 Posts
down wind somewhere
Obsessed
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| Thu Aug 20, 09 9:21 am |
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Think I'll try to find a longer leash, then upgrade bars next season? Thanks for all the help guys!! 
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mschulz
Since 29 May 2007
530 Posts
Reno, NV
Addicted
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| Thu Aug 20, 09 6:29 pm |
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| jsj wrote: | Nak-
Until I upgraded to a different brand kite, I just used the longer leash.
-John |
Probably the best
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MS |
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