Epoxy to fix skim board

pdxmonkeyboy · Sun Jun 07, 09 9:53 am **Epoxy to fix skim board**

So the bottom of my carbon skim board is looking a little rough from gravel winch starts and I wanted to put another coat of epoxy on it. Can I just use regular old epoxy like west system? Is there some way to thin it out or do I just hit it with a hair dryer and try my best to get a nice thin coat on there?

Thanks
PDXMB

Scribble · Since 18 Nov 2005 636 Posts NoPo Addicted

I've been working on the skim that you said was being made with Ghetto materials so I'll give you some help. Laughing

After getting laminated with 2 6 oz layers of sglass and a deck patch I don't think my pink foam is gunna break.

You need to sand it with like 100 or 150 grit and get all the shine off the board. Then Clean the board with some denatured alcohol then drag a piece of tape over it a couple times before you pour on the epoxy to get any dust off. Before running the tape I've been cleaning my hands really well and wiping the board down with my hand. But make sure your hands are super clean. You don't want any dust or oil from your hands etc... I would heat up the epoxy in the microwave like 2-3 seconds per ounce before you add the hardener. You will probably need like 4 oz resin, someone very experienced could get by with 2. Spread it with a paint brush. I'd also tape the rail and pull the tape when it's gelled but before it cures.

I use Resin Research epoxy that I buy from http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/. I tried two gloss coats with the additive F they sell with the epoxy and I will not use it for a gloss again, unless sanding and polishing it proves to be easy. The Additive F makes epoxy easy to sand, but I can't figure out how to do a gloss coat with it. I asked Hein about it just to see if I was doing something wrong and he didn't call me a dumbass :O) I did use West system epoxy previously from Zap Plastics and it turned out pretty good, but it's impossible to sand. I'm finishing up a skim using the RR and Additive F, the gloss had bubbles all over it from the additive F. Tomorrow I will sand it down. It's supposed to sand down and polish really well. I'll let you know how it goes.

Do a site search on Swaylocks.com for a gloss coat.
Lots of stuff to read there.

http://74.125.155.132/search?q=cache:KaDvFZ4TqvUJ:www2.swaylocks.com/files/1022910_GLOSS%2520COAT.doc+site:swaylocks.com+gloss+coat&cd=10&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&client=firefox-a

I found that article helpful. He's using poly but all the cleaning and everything else applies.

Andy

Gman · Since 11 Feb 2006 4911 Posts Portland Unstrapped

wholly crap - i'm glad Pepe's got them in stock

Pepi · Sun Jun 07, 09 12:54 pm

Yes,Gman, we do have them in stock, Rasta and Morphius, thanks for the plug(your checks in the mail).

Monkeyboy give me a shout at the shop. I may be able to help answer your questions, but it would be too much detail in an email.
But, basically, you can add a couple layers of Sglass to the bottom of your board, but you will need to either paint it afterwards, or use an epoxy with a UV inhibitor to avoid delamming from sun-uv.
Also, you will need to pick your resins according to the board construction.
Stiff board with no flex - West Systems epoxy is great (made to be hard, tough and specifically mixed for boat hulls)
Flexible board - S-Systems Epoxy, or any recommended surf epoxy from Fiberglass Supply (this stuff is created for dynamic flex, will not crack and delam when you load up your board).

As for dealing with resin issues, you guys need to utilize some breather cloth and peel-ply fabric for removing all the excess resin and leaving a flat and non-bubbled finish (a vacuum bag system will make this the money repair). Hot coating afterwards is easier, especially of you smooth out the glass with a thin shmeared mixture of epoxy and Cabisol filler (make it peanut butter consistancy-this spreads and sands nicely). Epoxy hot coat is best done via epoxy 2-part gelcoat paint or marine/appliance canned epoxy paint.

*I use to built a few prototype kiteboards for local seattle kiters and a wake company before moving down to the Hood and was able to learn a bit from a veteran wakeboard and boat builder.
**Anything Hein says different to my above comments, I will concede to his advice. He's the MAN when it comes to this stuff.

Pepi

pdxmonkeyboy · Sun Jun 07, 09 1:01 pm

thanks for the tip.

Scribble.. to get any and all dust off any surface, pick up a tack cloth at any home improvement store. They are like $2. the work awesome. Super tacky but leave no residue.

tinyE · Since 21 Jan 2006 2004 Posts not really an XTreme Poster

monkeyboy...
an easy thing to do is sand it down, put a nice thin layer of epoxy down, and then lay a really thin sheet of mylar on top of it, use a squeeqee to flatten it out evenly and get the bubbles out, then if you have a work lamp, just point that at it (not close enough to warp it), leave it over night, then peel the mylar off. you'll need to trim the edges up, but the surface will be pristine.

ps, tap plastics, or west marine, as long as it's epoxy, polyester won't stick...

pdxmonkeyboy · Sun Jun 07, 09 6:36 pm

Will epoxy stick over a vinyl sticker? Wanted to put some kind of graphic on the bottom of the board. something like this...

tinyE · Since 21 Jan 2006 2004 Posts not really an XTreme Poster

it will, but you will have a bump around the edges of the sticker.
the epoxy might also smear the sticker, not sure... i haven't tried it.

prolly safest to leave the stickers on the top.

Scribble · Since 18 Nov 2005 636 Posts NoPo Addicted

I printed out a picture I had taken on Rice paper and glued it on, then epoxied over it with some cloth. It actually worked great. It seems like a sticker would work too.

Andy

gorgebob · Since 25 Jun 2007 259 Posts Portland, OR Shop Owner

Check with Brad our new repair guy. Hes got tons of epoxy knowledge. We too have the morphius skims in stock if needed. Even a demo to try.

undertow · Since 15 Feb 2008 371 Posts BeaversBurg Obsessed

Hey gorgebob how much would it cost to get that repair done on a skim?

gorgebob · Since 25 Jun 2007 259 Posts Portland, OR Shop Owner

I will ask Brad and get back to you today tuesday.

gorgebob · Since 25 Jun 2007 259 Posts Portland, OR Shop Owner

my name is brad and i have recently taken over gorge performance ding repair i have been working in the industry for the last fourteen years with the best and for the best! we are getting ready for all major repairs, big and small, epoxy to poly for kite, surf, and sail boards if you have any questions feel free to contact me via phone @(503) 246-6646
or Email www.gorgeperformance.com. the best way for me to give you information is photos i gota see what im dealing with thats the best way to give you the rite information or just bring it in

SINcearly Brad @ gorge performance

pdxmonkeyboy · Tue Jun 09, 09 10:07 am

Brad, i just want a ball park figure to put another clearcoat on the skim board. Its a standard size skim. Like 42" x 24" or something. The existing clearcoat has been cutting worn thin that is all.

thanks,
Brian

Geno · Since 07 Apr 2006 64 Posts

Mnky, I can tell you how to put logos on your board with a clear coat, I'll try to get in touch with you soon.

tinyE · Since 21 Jan 2006 2004 Posts not really an XTreme Poster

i was thinking about hte sticker, and theoretically, the mylar should even out the epoxy layer so you don't have a bump around the edges.