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Slipin Lizard
Since 23 Sep 2005
88 Posts
Hood River, Oregon
Â
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 Thu Feb 19, 09 1:55 am |
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If you're thinking of getting into rock climbing outdoors, and buying some gear (which is hard to resist because its all those pretty unicorn colors!) check out the first pic that Gman posted.
That guy appears to be on a "sport" climb. The anchors are already drilled into the rock, he simply has to reach them, one by one, and lock in his protection. However, he is not "top roping". Above him and slightly to his right is the next "pin". He has to reach it, and clip in. If he falls right as he gets to it, he has to fall all the way past his last protection, then the same distance again to take up the slack.
It scares the piss out of ya the first time it happens. Just something to think about. I loved rock climbing, but came to realize I was too chicken to lead climb after I fell about 15ft off an over-hang. Fun sport though!
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Sella
Since 21 Apr 2007
1794 Posts
Doin' The Dalles
FLY'IN HIGH PIE GUY
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 5:10 am |
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If you're ever in Eastern Washington or Idaho nwkite's Donny Baker is an accomplished climber and author who has traveled the world climbing. He's got the kiting fever now and you'll see him almost every weekend in the Gorge. Great guy and always willing to help.
Inland Northwest Rock Climbs, by Marty Bland (Marty Bland, 2001), is a complete guide to 11 Spokane-area rock climbing destinations, including the three highlighted above. This comprehensive guidebook also provides information about how to get to the crags, where to camp, rest day activities, and area histories, peppered throughout with Bland’s unique and often humorous commentary.
According to The Weather Channel, Spokane’s average high temperature in March is 49, in April is 58, and in May is 66, making it a perfect spring climbing trip destination. China Bend, Deep Creek, and Dishman together provide rock climbers with the opportunity to rock climb on different types of rock in different settings with a good range of grade levels and sun/shade options.
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Donny Baker.jpg |
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forrest
Since 21 Jun 2005
4330 Posts
Hood River
Hick
CGKA Member
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 7:09 am |
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| Rock climbing is the shit!
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jbruxer
Since 24 Jul 2005
398 Posts
Beaverton, OR
Obsessed
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 7:28 am |
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| Slipin Lizard wrote: |
It scares the piss out of ya the first time it happens. Just something to think about. I loved rock climbing, but came to realize I was too chicken to lead climb after I fell about 15ft off an over-hang. Fun sport though! |
Yeah, I agree. I had a hard enough time letting someone belay me down while top roping, so I can only imagine what its going to be like when you add in a 4 foot drop against a wall. 
Chooch, can you find out how much it is for a day pass at the PRCG? Maybe I can meet you over there for a climb.
On a side note, how do you guys climb those 11's and sheer faces while being hundreds, if not thousands, of feet in the air with those giant cohonies?  
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pdxmonkeyboy
Since 16 May 2006
6081 Posts
forever labled as the
retired kiter & motorhead Unicorn Master
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 9:10 am |
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[quote="jbruxer"] | Slipin Lizard wrote: | | On a side note, how do you guys climb those 11's and sheer faces while being hundreds, if not thousands, of feet in the air with those giant cohonies? |
The first hundred or so feet are the worst cause things get small really quickly. After your about 300 feet up, things get smaller allot slower. If you really get into climbing you will soon find out that top roping is just "pretend" climbing. The real fun is on the sharp end of the rope when your leading. There comes a time when our climbing that things get soo serious or sketchy that your focus becomes like a laser beam and everything else except the 15 feet or so of rock in front of you fades away. Those are the times when you feel the zen of rock climbing and that is what makes it soo addicting. Just as addicting as kiteboarding, if not more so.
Falling is just part of the game. If you know how to place gear and how to fall correctly then your pretty safe, especially on the steeper routes. Does it scare the shit out of you to take a 50 foot whipper into space? Yes! Does your ass pucker when the last piece of gear you placed is 40 feet below you and your facing a huge fall until you get to that little ledge you can see 20 feet above you? yes. but after you stop shaking and get back on the rock, its all good. Its those memories that stick with you, not the time you did some "sweet top rope".
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pacifichigh
Since 11 May 2005
1004 Posts
ATX
Texan
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 9:13 am |
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Why are mountaineers roped together?
To keep the smart ones from leaving.
Regi and I spent years climbing big alpine rock- Bugaboos, North Cascades, Sierras, Squamish, Yosemite, etc.
Def good memories but some painful ones as well.
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pdxmonkeyboy
Since 16 May 2006
6081 Posts
forever labled as the
retired kiter & motorhead Unicorn Master
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 9:37 am |
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LOL, that is some funny shit!!
Never got to the bugaboos, looks like some sweet climbing up there. I had nightmares for about a week after climbing the NE butress of early winter spire in the north cascades.
Its funny how people think rock climbing is soo dangerous, alpine climbing is really where the shit hits the fan pretty quickly. Man I did some stupid shit in the mountains.
We should get a NWkite crew to go out to smith this spring and do some low key sport routes though, it would be nice to get back on the rock. Smith was always just allot of fun, clipping bolts and hanging out with friends in the sunshine.
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chanson
Since 31 Jan 2006
1874 Posts
WISCONSIN
Chimey
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 10:21 am |
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| Quote: | | We should get a NWkite crew to go out to smith this spring |
uhhhh....so, you mean.... instead of kiting??  
yeah, count me in
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Shallow Dive Design, 2nd Wind Sports, Airush, Trident Sports |
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Chooch
Since 18 Nov 2007
1871 Posts
Wicked Pissah
Boston Tea Bagger
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 10:46 am |
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Its $14 for a day pass and every 11th visit is free.
I get the month pass for $62 and its totally worth it if you plan on going anything more than once a week. Also been thinking about the year contract which is $52 a month...just not sure I will get my $ worth in the summer.
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Moto
Since 03 Sep 2006
2698 Posts
Still a gojo pimp!
Moto Mouth
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 10:56 am |
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[quote="pdxmonkeyboy"] | jbruxer wrote: | | Slipin Lizard wrote: | | On a side note, how do you guys climb those 11's and sheer faces while being hundreds, if not thousands, of feet in the air with those giant cohonies? |
The first hundred or so feet are the worst cause things get small really quickly. After your about 300 feet up, things get smaller allot slower. If you really get into climbing you will soon find out that top roping is just "pretend" climbing. The real fun is on the sharp end of the rope when your leading. There comes a time when our climbing that things get soo serious or sketchy that your focus becomes like a laser beam and everything else except the 15 feet or so of rock in front of you fades away. Those are the times when you feel the zen of rock climbing and that is what makes it soo addicting. Just as addicting as kiteboarding, if not more so.
Falling is just part of the game. If you know how to place gear and how to fall correctly then your pretty safe, especially on the steeper routes. Does it scare the shit out of you to take a 50 foot whipper into space? Yes! Does your ass pucker when the last piece of gear you placed is 40 feet below you and your facing a huge fall until you get to that little ledge you can see 20 feet above you? yes. but after you stop shaking and get back on the rock, its all good. Its those memories that stick with you, not the time you did some "sweet top rope". |
Monkey - your description of climbing is like waving crack in front of a crack head that hasn't had his fix in over a week! You know we're adrenaline junkies just looking to get our next fix!!
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Still rockin gojos, *ssless chaps, and ankle weights! |
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pdxmonkeyboy
Since 16 May 2006
6081 Posts
forever labled as the
retired kiter & motorhead Unicorn Master
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 11:09 am |
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| Chooch wrote: | Its $14 for a day pass and every 11th visit is free.
I get the month pass for $62 and its totally worth it if you plan on going anything more than once a week. Also been thinking about the year contract which is $52 a month...just not sure I will get my $ worth in the summer. |
Chooch, climbing in the gym is fun in the winter but in the summer.....not so much. probably more fun that sauvie though. LOL
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Chooch
Since 18 Nov 2007
1871 Posts
Wicked Pissah
Boston Tea Bagger
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 11:29 am |
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What are you talking about...Sauvies is going to kill it this summer with da Winch!  People are going to make the drive from Stevenson to Sauvies just to ride the Uni-Winch
I still think I can make it to the gym 1-2 nights a week in the summer to make the membership pay for itself. That's the only reason I'm still on the monthly pass...I'll just have to wait and see this summer
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Chooch
Since 18 Nov 2007
1871 Posts
Wicked Pissah
Boston Tea Bagger
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 11:29 am |
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What are you talking about...Sauvies is going to kill it this summer with da Winch! People are going to make the drive from Stevenson to Sauvies just to ride the Uni-Winch
I still think I can make it to the gym 1-2 nights a week in the summer to make the membership pay for itself. That's the only reason I'm still on the monthly pass...I'll just have to wait and see this summer
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chanson
Since 31 Jan 2006
1874 Posts
WISCONSIN
Chimey
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 11:39 am |
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chooch,
how the F do you post while welding???
sound like a tough job
_________________
Shallow Dive Design, 2nd Wind Sports, Airush, Trident Sports |
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forrest
Since 21 Jun 2005
4330 Posts
Hood River
Hick
CGKA Member
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 11:40 am |
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Even better than Smith Rock is Bulo Point. 35 minutes away from Hood River. Well maintained and well bolted. It's in the "Rock Climbing Oregon" guide book.
If someone knows how to lead trad, or doesn't mind me shimmying out on a sketchy ledge to set a top rope, Pete's Pile is f@#king baddass and only 25 minutes from Hood River.
The best thing is there are almost zero climbers in Hood River so I always have these places to myself and the people I bring.
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kyle.vh
Since 11 Jul 2007
713 Posts
city of angels
Addicted
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 11:55 am |
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I want to snow-kite approach Illumination Rock on Mt Hood and climb to the peak. I really want to try merging the sports. It would be way faster than any other means of approach.
Anyone want to do that with me in the spring? There are alpine routes form 5.5 to 5.11 that we could get to the top...I've done it in the winter but it was pretty shitty ice.
Could be pretty epic.
Forrest, its funny, it does seem like there are very few climbers in the NW, compared to the east. Maybe its just more crowded in the east...
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Gman
Since 11 Feb 2006
4911 Posts
Portland
Unstrapped
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| Thu Feb 19, 09 12:00 pm |
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I was attacked by Mtn Goats while on belay in the North Cascades. Don't pee on the bushes before you climb, they will go apeshit to get em.
Climbing is just like kiting, cept no beach, beer, babes...
You do get to see some amazing places, I started at a gym in the Bay Area and got the bug. There is great climbing within a days drive of Portland - North Cascades, Index, Squamish, Smith and tons of moss covered slimy spots closer to town.
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Go Deep!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eu2pBpQolKE |
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