SS Surefire

SpaceRacer · Since 04 Nov 2007 434 Posts Obsessed

Hi, anyone use this system? Like the concept but I often pre-release when going toeside, especially in snow when the CL is rock hard. Anyone have any advice on how to keep from pre-releasing? Usually what happens is the chicken loop pushes out the back of the donkey clip, not that the release mechanism is hit. I thought of maybe a much smaller chicken loop as I am on the Cabrinha QR and CL and the CL stays behind so smaller size won't matter. Thoughts?

kitezilla · Since 22 Jun 2006 453 Posts gorge Obsessed

I haven't heard of anyone adequately solving the escaping chicken loop problem...especially if you want to do unhook riding. My analysis of the problem is:

(1) A small, (conventional) chicken loop will still escape, as will a 1&1/2 inch steel ring.
(2) The reason for escape is due to the rider slacking the lines, allowing the chicken loop to fall to the bottom of the hook, where it can rest against the donkey tab, and twist; and then, as the rider goes toeside, and leans back, which powers up the kite, the CL prys open the tab.
(3) So, if the CL is prevented from falling and sliding down the inside of the hook, the CL will not escape.
(4) How to keep the CL at the top of the inside of hook is the million dollar question.

I have a friend who claims to have solved the problem by making a custom CL out of a small (1&1/2 inch) loop of rope, which is covered with PVC tube. After about a year of successful use, (going toeside, without escapes) the rope broke, and he did a long swim. So, be sure to use heavy duty rope, if you decide on this tinkered up solution. He claims that the reason this modification prevents CL escape, is due to the small loop hugging the hook tighter, and taking a memory of the hook, thereby creating a situation, where, STICKTION solves the problem, by holding the CL up high in the hook.

I subscribe to the theory that metal-on-metal contact allows a safer release, and therefore, have always used a inch and a half steel ring, as my CL. This is the only safe size ring to use, in that the use of a larger diameter ring, such as 2 inches, is dangerous, because it can slip around the release lever, and jam the safety mechanism. Even a inch and a half ring can do this if it is made with a thinner thickness metal (that is the problem with most stainless steel inch and a half rings that are available, so you should use the steel ring found in hardware stores, and sells for about 60 cents).

Also, you can become part of the great experiment, by pursuing one of two ideas, yourself, which I propose.

The first involves the use of a magnet to hold the CL high in the hook, and the second involves the use of velcro to do likewise.

I would suggest using a very powerful neodymium magnet and somehow attaching it at the top of the hook...and use a 60 cent inch and half steel ring, as the CL. You can't use a stainless ring, since a magnet will not stick to it.

The other suggestion would involve somehow covering the standard CL with velcro, and then attaching a piece of opposite velcro to the top of the inside of the hook. The velcro may stick the CL just enough to keep it from falling down, and yet still allow it to safely release with a small amount of pull.

Problems you will encounter with velcro is sand retention and the resultant lack of stickiness, so you would want to make the velcro easily replaceable.

A problem with the steel ring and magnet would be corrosion.

You could also try some other mildly sticky substance, like putty tape, but.....

Of course you would want to pre-test any tinkered up design.

Let us know what you decide.

I bet Nak has some ideas on this subject.