Need Help-Kiteboard repair

mojo1time · Since 28 Jul 2005 186 Posts Stoked

I have a Brunotti 134 x 38.5 Model Pro X. I broke my Liquid Force straps (base cracked), while unscrewing I had to cut two screws off because the screw inserts spun under the glass while I was trying to pull them out. I have never had this problem with Slingshot, but the board was a gift for my wedding last year and I love it. Can anyone refer me to a good board repair person/company. I am hoping to go local.

Email: LanceLarivee@mindspring.com
Send me a PM
or call 415.730.2001

I am in NE Portland, but willing to hit Hood River for sure.

pdxmonkeyboy · Fri Nov 14, 08 2:03 am

That sucks Lance. I don't know anyone but would love to find out who does the work if you get it done. Gorge P could probably do it. PM blake I mean mixwell.

Kataku2k3 · Since 14 Aug 2005 3754 Posts PDX-LA Videographer

Shitty for sure, but I don't know that there's any really simple fix if the insert is spinning. When the fin inserts on my old '06 Pro-X delamed, they warrantied it and shipped me out a new one (though at that time there were no US dealers so I had to buy/ship from the UK). Because of this, shipping was like $60, but I did get a brand new board out of it. Might be harder to do here since it's an '07, though I'd still give it a shot.

Fixing it just seems like it'd be a bitch. I don't know how you'd keep the glass layer strong and looking decent without removing/replacing the entire top sheet.

Wind Slither · Since 04 Mar 2005 2626 Posts The 503 METAL

I have the same thing going on with an old board of mine. The bolts got stuck and when I tried to work them out the inserts came loose inside the board.

Talk about a tease! You think you've finally broke the threads loose and psyike! Your inserts are screwed!

I think you have to drill them out and replace them with the kind that have a bottom part sunk into the bottom of the board. The kind you see people use when they make a plywood home job. Messy.

Crying or Very sad

backtoCaLi · Since 15 Mar 2008 74 Posts Nor-Cal

wind slither has got it. Just like a snowboard, once the insert comes loose, drill it out, and T-bolt it. Ideally you will also remove some of your base material to countersink the t-nut into the board flush. We used to do this to our snowboards to get that extra stance width! always scary drilling into a brand new deck. Good luck and remember you could always just epoxy the shit outta it....

Sol-flyer · Fri Nov 14, 08 9:07 am

thats fukked Evil or Very Mad

I have the same board, same pads/straps. My pads cracked as well, Luxury-of-crap. Shitty deal about the insert. How tight do you usually get your bolts? Might want to keep em a lil more loose, that might help in the future, i have to re-tighten mine every sess, but they dont push against the bottom of the board.

you might try to put a Flathead screwdriver under the pad/strap and pry up as you try to unscrew. this is usually a two person job. If you get the bolt out, fill the stripped insert with epoxy and use another.

If you dont want to "home job" it, you might talk to Jason C. at www.gokiting.com and see what he can do for ya.

hope that helps,
Sol

Chooch · Fri Nov 14, 08 9:27 am

There is a custom surfboard/kitesurf board shop in Lyle, WA. I forget the name but I am pretty sure he could fix your board. Chanson was in there and talked to the owner, he might remember the name. They are located just across the Klik bridge across from the Lyle Tap Room.

Just found the info

Opon Ocean Boards
509 365-4115
Brian Hinde

pdxmonkeyboy · Fri Nov 14, 08 9:40 am

in the spirit of half baked ideas (and avoiding having your board look like a ghetto piece of crap with t bolts sticking out the bottom). Is there any way you could drill a series of small holes around the insert, bottoming them out on the insert, and then filling them with epoxy? If you warm the epoxy up you could inject it into the holes and your pads would cover up your work.

Seems like it may work as you only have to keep them from spinning, there is no risk of them being pulling out.

backtoCaLi · Since 15 Mar 2008 74 Posts Nor-Cal

one man's "ghetto crap", is another's "steez".......T-bolts are hardcore!

another idea, warranty that POS!

pdxmonkeyboy · Fri Nov 14, 08 10:13 am

Gman · Since 11 Feb 2006 4911 Posts Portland Unstrapped

Gorge Performance can fix this for you - I still have gorilla glue on my ceiling from my last ghetto home repair

Kraemer · Since 24 Apr 2006 1736 Posts Sky Pilot Unicorn Captain

Bob at Gorge performace has more experience than most--

chanson · Since 31 Jan 2006 1874 Posts WISCONSIN Chimey

yeah, while we are on the GP train...

Bob did a hell of a job on my surf...Almost cracked all the way in half under my front foot.....thought it was toast.... It looks almost new again..

We'll see how long it holds up.. Wink

jsj · Since 11 Sep 2006 83 Posts Hood River

I replaced an insert on my '06 Thorn last winter. whether it works for you depends on how handy you are, how cheap you are, how hard you hammer your board. I don't throw huge tricks but I do jump a fair bit, and it was rock solid all last summer.

use a router to cut approx 1"x1" square pocket from the top, clear foam right down to the base layer. plan this part a bit as you don't want the hole to interfere with other inserts in the board.

find a piece of ABS (mcmaster or TAP plastic or even scrap from a machine shop), it needs to be as thick as the board, less the base. Slightly thicker is fine since you can sand it down.

cut it to a tight fit to the hole, it should wedge in and not be loose at all. Corners need to be tight as well, any gaps will weaken the joint considerably. adjust thickness at this point to make sure the plug is flush with the top surface of the board.

drill a through hole in the center of the plastic, sized to fit a threaded insert. brass 1/4-20 from ACE seemed to work fine for me. Install insert to plastic, make it flush to the top surface of the plastic. If it projects through underneath, grind down so that it's flush.

roughen board top surface 3/4" around pocket with a piece of sandpaper, clean off with alcohol. tape around area using painter's release tape.

using a high quality 2-part epoxy (west 105 is a good choice), install plastic into board.

cut 4-oz fiberglass patch to match sanded area, make sure to round corners of patch. cut small hole approx where insert will be, lay on repair area and run long screw through fiberglass into insert, bottom out screw.

apply a layer of epoxy over glass, work bubbles out of 'glass. let epoxy start to harden. before it freezes completely, remove screw - too early and you'll pull up the glass somewhat and too late you might have a hard time getting screw out.

after curing, clean it up, reattach straps. add wind and water.

-john

pdxmonkeyboy · Fri Nov 14, 08 2:57 pm

Nice John!!

Nak · Fri Nov 14, 08 8:16 pm

NICE how to JSJ!!! Thumb's Up

We need a "How To" section where posts like this can be placed and easily found later.

If some of you guys have had LF Luxury pads crack, LF is outstanding when it comes to making it right. Tekko exchanged mine for new ones at KB4C, no questions asked.

To avoid bolts freezing in the inserts, use some kind of thread sealer on the bolts. I've been using Loctite Pink. It's a weak thread-locker, and seals the threads so they don't corrode or seize. I haven't tried the blue loctite yet, it might be a bit too strong. But I really don't know for sure.

mojo1time · Since 28 Jul 2005 186 Posts Stoked

I think I am hitting GP on this one, I am pretty handy but think I will still botch it. I am going to check on the T bolt option tomorrow, then GP after that.

See you on the water soon.....or snow anyhow:)