Or if you don't want to try Rocket sauce, try a red sharpie pen.
Windian
Since 28 Apr 2008
889 Posts
Newport, OR
NEWPORT OG
Fri Nov 30, 18 12:53 pm
600 grit wet/dry sand paper and use water as lubricant. If that doesn't do it, then start with 400 grit wet/dry with water and then step up to 600 grit to finish it out.
Nice looking surfboard, the scratches are probably from carrying the board under your arm and the bottom of the board is rubbing against hard edges on your harness. I try to always carry my board with the deck against my body and harness for that very reason.
Pete
Since 29 Oct 2007
836 Posts
Opinionated
Fri Nov 30, 18 2:20 pm
Windian wrote:
600 grit wet/dry sand paper and use water as lubricant. If that doesn't do it, then start with 400 grit wet/dry with water and then step up to 600 grit to finish it out.
Nice looking surfboard, the scratches are probably from carrying the board under your arm and the bottom of the board is rubbing against hard edges on your harness. I try to always carry my board with the deck against my body and harness for that very reason.
Thanks, yeah, I agree, that's exactly how I think they got there. Previous owner mistakes. I always do the same.
bwd
Since 04 Aug 2007
385 Posts
Obsessed
Fri Nov 30, 18 5:39 pm
Another technique that can work for “better” but not “factory” results is to mix up a tiny bit of clear epoxy and mix it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol. Typically resin suppliers spec no more than 5% solvent can be added, but that is based n maintaining some sfrength I think. 10% or so will make it pretty watery. Drop a little in the scratches and wipe/spread with a clean rag or even a paper towel.
Watch it like a hawk and when it starts to gel BUT HASNT GELLED YET wipe excess away with a clean cloth wetted with more solvent. Wipe till area around scratches is clean and dry to avoid smears etc. New shiny resin will remain in the scratches, more or less. It will be pretty effective (80-95%) hiding them.
Adavantages include filling any small cracks that may lurk among scratches with resin.
Disadvantages mainly that it may be still imperfect cosmetically...
This is also a good way to improve the cosmetics and smoothness of fins that get a rash of light scratches.
Matt V
Since 26 Oct 2014
462 Posts
Summer- OR Coast, Winter - My van near good snow
Explosive Diarrhea
Sat Dec 01, 18 9:57 am
bwd wrote:
......mix up a tiny bit of clear epoxy and mix it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol.
Isn't Isopropyl alcohol like 9% water at best (I have only seen 99% isopropyl alcohol once in a store). Given that almost all epoxies are pretty allergic to water, would that not ruin the epoxy?
What grade of isopropyl alcohol are you using? _________________ MSN has temporarily removed commenting on our websites while we explore better ways for you to engage in discussion on the issues you care about.
Ho-Toe
Since 30 Apr 2014
231 Posts
pissed-off science guy like Bill Nye
CO2 quantifier & upwelling specialist
Sat Dec 01, 18 3:34 pm
Isopropanol is commonly available in a variety of concentrations, with 70% and 90-something% being most common (you never see 100% because it’s hygroscopic, absorbing water vapor as an impurity). Your choice of concentration should be dictated by what you wish to use it for:
For diluting epoxy (an application I wasn’t previously aware of—thanks BWD), you’d want to use a NEW BOTTLE of the most concentrated isopropanol you can get your hands on, because of the water business I mentioned above.
For sterilizing the diarrhea-splattered interior of one’s van, 70% is more appropriate. 70% isopropanol more effectively penetrates most bacterial cell walls, killing pathogens more effectively than stronger isopropanol does.
YMMV.
bwd
Since 04 Aug 2007
385 Posts
Obsessed
Sun Dec 02, 18 7:56 am
91%, drugstore isopropanol
Works fine as epoxy additive for many months if not used up by then.
Never bothered trying to figure out how much moisture
it picks up from air in bottle.
Definitely does pick up water enough to be part of my jerry can cleaning procedure also, though.
Alcohols are effective and safer solvents for surfboard epoxy than acetone etc. Acetone and maybe some others not only dissolve the epoxy and hardener components, they can carry them through your skin leading to chemical sensitization and whatever else depending in what is in there. Epoxies can contain metal salts and other things I prefer not to absorb.
Up to 5% volume alcohol helps flow amd penetration by lowering viscosity and evaporates out ( at normal temps, 65F or so plus) before resin gels so strength is not hurt. Double that can be used to get a really thin epoxy glaze as described earlier, but the resulting epoxy will be a little porous and weaker. Shiny, though.
I usually use resin research epoxy which is made with hardeners that are less toxic and really try not to get it on skin.
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