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barfly
Since 31 Mar 2005
1214 Posts
Portland
BRACKISH
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 Tue Jan 10, 12 2:40 pm |
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Nice! Insul in the walls has got to be the big win in the game. |
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macgruber
Since 06 Dec 2011
490 Posts
SE PDX volcano
Obsessed
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| Wed Jan 11, 12 1:30 pm |
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| I'm an old-house remodeler in SE Portland and have had good luck getting walls filled with cellulose. Don't consider trying this with the free Home Depot blower, it doesn't really work. Don't fill the walls if you have knob and tube wiring or leaky siding that gets rained on heavily (it can lead to damp walls). Attics are the most important and floors next. I have a local guy do it but Gale and JB are large companies that might travel up to Hood River. |
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blowhard
Since 26 Dec 2005
2027 Posts
Windward
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| Wed Jan 11, 12 2:16 pm |
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| barfly wrote: | | Vapor retardant paint is a joke |
how come no likey ? |
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barfly
Since 31 Mar 2005
1214 Posts
Portland
BRACKISH
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| Thu Jan 12, 12 9:27 am |
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| blowhard wrote: | | barfly wrote: | | Vapor retardant paint is a joke |
how come no likey ? |
My take for homes on the coast anyway, is that you will not be able to stop the water. You don't even want to. Either the liquid or vapor form. New or old, homes will absorb moisture in the rainy months and dry to the bone in sunny months. Air will flow through walls and siding, definitely openings. Contractors who try to caulk the shit out of everything and wrap in it tyvek and button everything up are on a fool's errand. Water will get in and if you trap it, it will rot. I am not a licensed contractor anymore, but have several custom home builder friends and they offer a chance for all moisture to get out with proper flashing and good sealing of top and sides of openings. They only put 30# felt on over the sheathing and on window/door openings they flash with sealing tape on the top and sides only (the sealing tape is really only for wind break in the gaps. Some don't even like the tape and just foam the gaps. Also, if the homeowner can afford it, placing a layer of 3M scotchbrite-like stuff between the felt and siding makes a gap that air can get in and out of allowing the wetness to dry.
Let the house breathe is my philosophy. Sometimes that compromises energy efficiency but if done right with good insulation, building research organizations are even saying that regular latex paint without vapor barriers at all on the walls is sufficient. The vapor barriers don't help with energy efficiency and keeping the house warm/cool much anyway, minimal r value.
Long wind, sorry. |
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blowhard
Since 26 Dec 2005
2027 Posts
Windward
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| Thu Jan 12, 12 2:38 pm |
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Ha ha
me too ,
Iv'e seen the rot from improper seal jobs
And I've seen no rot with homes(made from Port Orford cedar) sitting on dirt/sand ,
and just about every so called improper installs in between.
A wood stove and no insulation has worked for a long time around these parts
I'm a big believer in ventilation and a good roof with proper overhangs to save an old home in Oregon
I just insulated our 60's "beach cabin"(home) and redid the south face with shingles and 30# felt under every layer.
After the windows(energy efficient) were installed without proper flashing less than 8 yrs. ago. The cedar drop siding wasn't too bad but all the recently replaced fir framing they installed was gone,the original framing was still good where the energy efficienty had NOT taken place
So Forrest,
be careful to shed all the water and have your condensation take place were it can dry out |
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quenyaistar
Since 21 Oct 2011
416 Posts
Cougar, WA
Obsessed
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| Thu Jan 12, 12 4:38 pm |
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Make sure you get real 30 pound felt. New construction and places like home depot use/sell this paper thin crap they call 30 pound but it is not.
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blowhard
Since 26 Dec 2005
2027 Posts
Windward
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| Fri Jan 13, 12 8:25 am |
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| quenyaistar wrote: | | Make sure you get real 30 pound felt. New construction and places like home depot use/sell this paper thin crap they call 30 pound but it is not. |
ha,
I needed it bad and got it bad ,paid 3 times as much for felt from Copeland
than from the local shake mill who also had much better shingles for 30% less
than the box stores |
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barfly
Since 31 Mar 2005
1214 Posts
Portland
BRACKISH
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| Wed Feb 01, 12 3:51 pm . |
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I get this newsletter, here's the web link
http://www.reedconstructiondata.com/enewsletters/construction-ewire-february-1-2012/?cmpid=NLC
Other than the interesting IMF article, the insulation stuff may be helpful. Blowhard, note the Materials & Tools section (esp Tools  ) " If space is tight and opening walls isn’t an option, insulating paint (reinforced with vacuum-filled ceramic beads) can be spread of surfaces to reduce heat transmission." Well had I known there were vacuum-filled ceramic bead options, I wouldn't have answered so hastily.  |
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wakeup
Since 11 Sep 2005
328 Posts
always
Obsessed
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| Wed Feb 01, 12 11:06 pm |
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| yall are funny!! |
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bwd
Since 04 Aug 2007
385 Posts
Obsessed
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| Thu Feb 02, 12 8:39 am |
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| Quote: | | homes will absorb moisture in the rainy months and dry to the bone in sunny months. Air will flow through walls and siding, definitely openings. Contractors who try to caulk the shit out of everything and wrap in it tyvek and button everything up are on a fool's errand. |
True across the country. My bro in the SE told me about a DIY guy (lawyer I believe) who practically destroyed his house while painting it by trying to caulk between every clapboard to make it tighter.
He had to get a lot of the siding replaced and some rotten studs too, within a year or two... $100 in caulk cost him $10000 or so in the end.... |
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blowhard
Since 26 Dec 2005
2027 Posts
Windward
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| Thu Feb 02, 12 8:54 am |
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| bwd wrote: | | Quote: | | homes will absorb moisture in the rainy months and dry to the bone in sunny months. Air will flow through walls and siding, definitely openings. Contractors who try to caulk the shit out of everything and wrap in it tyvek and button everything up are on a fool's errand. |
True across the country. My bro in the SE told me about a DIY guy (lawyer I believe) who practically destroyed his house while painting it by trying to caulk between every clapboard to make it tighter.
He had to get a lot of the siding replaced and some rotten studs too, within a year or two... $100 in caulk cost him $10000 or so in the end.... |
That's what is going on at my home the former owner (from So-Cal,where it wouldn't matter as much) tried to put some lipstick on a pig and had the painters caulk the drop siding ,luckily the siding moved enough to break the caulk and let the siding breathe. |
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forrest
Since 21 Jun 2005
4330 Posts
Hood River
Hick
CGKA Member
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