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how short is to short?
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Post new topic   Reply to topic    Northwest Kiteboarding -> Gorge / Portland / Oregon Coast
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Ryan

Since 14 Jul 2005
536 Posts
Oregon
Addicted



PostMon Jun 25, 07 12:49 pm    how short is to short? Reply with quote

Im going to cut down my lines on a bar and am wondering what the best length is for riding in high winds. I have a standard 23m bar but am wondering if i should do 20m, 18m etc?

what do people use most out there? what are some of the pro's and cons?

thanks,

Ryan

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chanson

Since 31 Jan 2006
1873 Posts
WISCONSIN
Chimey



PostMon Jun 25, 07 12:54 pm     Reply with quote

Wow, perfect thread..

I just had two of my 4 lines ripped about 5-7m from the end...and I am trying to shorten mine to avoid replacing all of them...

So, I am curious....what do you do with your lines now that the pigtails are gone and it's just line?

And, what size is too short.??

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forrest

Since 21 Jun 2005
4329 Posts
Hood River
Hick

CGKA Member


PostMon Jun 25, 07 12:58 pm     Reply with quote

Don't know much about this, but I just switched from 27m to 23m lines on my 7m Waroo and now I need a shit ton more wind for it to be useful. Kite flies way closer to the edge.

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Kataku2k3

Since 14 Aug 2005
3753 Posts
Los Angeles, CA
Videographer



PostMon Jun 25, 07 1:04 pm     Reply with quote

I wouldn't go any shorter than 20m. Ryan, I'm writing you back right now, it's just taking a while. My 16m lines allow me to ride up in the 35kt range on my Fuel 7, but if it lulls, it's a pain as the sweep is so small. 20-23m is what I like!

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magicmaker

Since 29 Oct 2006
895 Posts
da Hood
Opinionated



PostMon Jun 25, 07 2:09 pm     Reply with quote

i think 20m is about as short as you should go, altho everyone is different; doesn't lou wainman ride on like 10m or 15m lines? i know the advantage of shorter lines is that it is easier to loop the kite, but it is pretty darn easy to throw kite loops w/ 23m lines. One of the guys at slingshot told me to get a set of 20m ranger lines for my 9m fuel. I'm not really big into cutting my lines cause then how do you reattach the end point? and will it really be as strong as it was when it came from the factory? and not to mention if you already broke it, then i'm kind of under the assumption that it will break again especially if I was to stitch it back together. So isn't it time to get some new lines anyway?

maybe i am just spoiled a bit w/ my kite gear Very Happy I wouldn't think twice about the cost of going and getting another line set from slingy

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pdxmonkeyboy

Since 16 May 2006
6081 Posts
forever labled as the
retired kiter & motorhead Unicorn Master



PostMon Jun 25, 07 2:15 pm     Reply with quote

Chanson, I need to replace some of my lines...maybe go 50/50 on a bulk spool of line?

Anyone else? It would be nice to get two bulk spools with different colors.
?

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scottm

Since 12 Jun 2006
108 Posts

Stoked



PostMon Jun 25, 07 2:37 pm     Reply with quote

I've run everything from 18m to 30m lines over the years. The advantage to short lines are the kite turns and responds quicker and you get better feedback. The disadvantages are less lift for floater jumps and your power stroke is a lot shorter ... a huge disadvantage in gusty underpowered conditions but no problem in consistent powered conditions.

Personally I don't like anything under 23m (not enough wind range) or over 27m (too much delay in kite response).

To cut down sleeved lines (Slingshot, etc) just cut the zig-zag threads between the sleeve, slide the sleeve down the line, cut the line, and tie a knot in the sleeve/lines (square knot is fine).

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bambam

Since 15 Mar 2005
760 Posts
Hood River
Photographer



PostMon Jun 25, 07 3:04 pm     Reply with quote

Been messing with all sorts of line lengths during testing... 10m all the way out to 27m.

For my Torch I have pretty much settled down at 20m... Turns super tight, but anything shorter and the kite gets crazy in the Maui gust fests.

For the 07 Boxer, I still like riding down to 15m. Our production standard is 20m, and this is probably the every day length I would stick with. I find that the Boxer will handle the shorter line lengths eaiser as you have the sheeting in and sheeting out aspect to deal with kite surges and gusts.

Personally I no longer ride any of my kites with line lengths over 20m. Once you get the jumping technique down, you figure out how to do mutilple kite circles (don't even think about calling it a "kite loop" unless your getting close to level with the kite) to both keep going up and controlling your descent... But then I am no longer focused on going ballistically huge and much rather have the feeling of going with my kite rather then just swinging around under it.

Different strokes as they say, so try different lenghts until you settle on something that you like. Kite on, Jon

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Moto

Since 03 Sep 2006
2698 Posts
Still a gojo pimp!
Moto Mouth



PostMon Jun 25, 07 3:10 pm     Reply with quote

Is there a way to lengthen your lines? Are there like 3 or 4 meter sets of lines that you can put on and take off depending on wind conditions. If not - would they be hard to make?

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Kataku2k3

Since 14 Aug 2005
3753 Posts
Los Angeles, CA
Videographer



PostMon Jun 25, 07 3:17 pm     Reply with quote

terremoto wrote:
Is there a way to lengthen your lines? Are there like 3 or 4 meter sets of lines that you can put on and take off depending on wind conditions. If not - would they be hard to make?


It's not that hard at all, though I haven't personally done it. Just make a super short (whatever length you want) set, with sleeves on both ends. If your lines are setup so that both the front and rear connect via Lark's Heads, it's a 2 minute job to add the extensions. If you have different connections on your fronts and rears (ie. Lark's Head connections on the kite), then tie knots into your extensions.

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bambam

Since 15 Mar 2005
760 Posts
Hood River
Photographer



PostMon Jun 25, 07 4:26 pm     Reply with quote

Adam is right. Super easy... In fact if your not a neat freak, you don't need to stitch anything. Just make sure you tie knots with the sheathing covering the line, as spectra line will wear right through itself.

Most good kite shops now carry the required sheathing. Same stuff that is at the end of all the production line sets.

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KITEADDICT

Since 13 Apr 2006
117 Posts
PDX west side
Stoked



PostMon Jun 25, 07 5:07 pm     Reply with quote

I have sewn the sheathing and just tied it. I found it is better to sew the sheathing if you have the time. Because it is easyer to untangle when you are rigining up.

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Kataku2k3

Since 14 Aug 2005
3753 Posts
Los Angeles, CA
Videographer



PostMon Jun 25, 07 6:33 pm     Reply with quote

KITEADDICT wrote:
I have sewn the sheathing and just tied it. I found it is better to sew the sheathing if you have the time. Because it is easyer to untangle when you are rigining up.


I totally agree... However, it's really hard to make stitching look nice. I've tried using decent sewing machines, but they still don't work all that great. You really need one that'll apply a lot of tension to the line (industrial grade?) with a custom foot specifically designed to hold the sleeves in place and pull through evenly...

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Spike

Since 13 May 2007
1414 Posts
Alameda
Spelling Expert



PostMon Jun 25, 07 7:38 pm     Reply with quote

other than requiring higher angular velocities (couldn't think of a less nerdy term, sorry) to keep the kite speed up, how does shortening the kite lines actually affect the kite? How does the kite care from how far away the control inputs are coming??

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pdxmonkeyboy

Since 16 May 2006
6081 Posts
forever labled as the
retired kiter & motorhead Unicorn Master



PostMon Jun 25, 07 8:08 pm     Reply with quote

spike, do a search, there was a good thread a while back on here. Anyone have the link...

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gabe

Since 16 May 2005
475 Posts

Obsessed



PostMon Jun 25, 07 9:42 pm     Reply with quote

remember to think about the total distance from bar to kite. with flat kites, the long bridles, long chicken loop, and maybe some long leaders can add up to a much bigger distance than on some c kites, so the lines themselves are just one part of the sum. also, shorter lines make more sense on smaller kites, because although the window is smaller, the small kites turn faster and are just physically smaller obviously, so they can still move around the window easily. a big kite naturally needs a bigger window to have as much flexibility for moving it around aggressively for power.

the more i use shorter lines (20m with fairly long leaders, but 3m shorter than usual) the more i like them. as long as you are powered. no fun if underpowered, so i only rig them when it's full on. would you rather ride a 5m on 23m lines or a 7 on 20m lines? kind of a tough choice and i would tend to choose the former. best way to resolve the dilemma is to kite is really strong wind so you can use smallest kite and shortest lines you have. shorter lines are an absolutely huge benefit for aggressive swell riding (sweeping kite for top and bottom turns like on sideshore waves.) i think ~17m will probably deliver the best performance. this is how Joe rips the swells, and i am sold on the short lines for this, as long as you're powered.

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pkh

Since 27 Feb 2005
6548 Posts
Couve / Hood
Site Lackey



PostMon Jun 25, 07 9:43 pm     Reply with quote

Spike wrote:
other than requiring higher angular velocities (couldn't think of a less nerdy term, sorry) to keep the kite speed up, how does shortening the kite lines actually affect the kite? How does the kite care from how far away the control inputs are coming??


shortening the lines reduces the size of the wind window and by reducing the radius of the kite's swing through the air. It spends less time in the middle of the window when you sweep it so you lose a little low end and jumping ability if you over shorten the lines. when the kite is parked the low end is unaffected.

I like 23's for all around. 20m's are good as long as they don't pinch your kite down too much, I noticed my W 11m didn't like 20m's too much.

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