How To: Making a Dual Layer Depower Rope

dwaynej · Since 09 Sep 2013 207 Posts Stoked **CGKA Member**

Thank you! Snagged a Slingshot bar and ordered my Amsteel depower replacement cord this evening.

dwaynej · Since 09 Sep 2013 207 Posts Stoked **CGKA Member**

Compstick with 20" Bar and 20M Lines + 3M line extensions I can swap out. Only issue is the sliding stopper which I did not attempt to install. All lines stretched and depower out, and bar sits just on top of the chicken loop release. Stopper ball is essentially in the same position as the factory setting.

Thank you!

Nak · Wed Dec 11, 13 2:58 pm

Looks great DwayneJ! I don't re-use the fixed stopper ball. I'm not sure why it's really there, other than to prevent you from trimming to much. Also, the Naish sliding stoppers work great on this line and have the added benefit of being removable or addable at any time. You can pick one up for $10.

dwaynej · Since 09 Sep 2013 207 Posts Stoked **CGKA Member**

Thanks for the feedback on the Nash sliding stopper ball! For the time being I will go without given the current bar does not have this feature.

- Dwayne

Jonpnw · Sat Dec 14, 13 11:46 am **Question**

Ready to get my Nak on.

Is the loop around your ring actually single layer? So if you cut your amsteel 16' long and insert it half way with the fid, the dual layer starts "under" the ring ?

Thanks !

Nak · Sat Dec 14, 13 8:57 pm

Yeah, the little loop that the caribiner is in is single layer. then yo uhave a bit of single layer at the other end where the inner line ends and the outer line continues. The single layer at that end makes it really easy to feed through hardware components and is cut off after bar assembly.

Jonpnw · Sun Dec 15, 13 6:34 pm **Try it on a cold day.**

Good way to get warm. Evil or Very Mad

I lost my fid inside the amsteel twice. Tape broke. My amsteel is looking rather worked over. I will keep practicing and get some more for my real one.

Respect to those that nail it on the first try.

dwaynej · Since 09 Sep 2013 207 Posts Stoked **CGKA Member**

Johnb · Since 02 Aug 2010 494 Posts Obsessed

I cheated and bought a fid. The rope threads onto the fid and does not come off.

Jonpnw · Tue Dec 17, 13 12:57 pm **Fid**

John what does your fid look like ? I search for one online and found many different styles. How does the rope thread on to yours ?

Thanks

Johnb · Since 02 Aug 2010 494 Posts Obsessed

This is the one I bought:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QJREO4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is hollow with internal threads. I separated and removed about 6 strands then just threaded the fid on to the rope it was very solid.

I would be happy to loan it out if you are close to Vancouver/Camas.

Aeolus · Thu Nov 13, 14 10:08 pm

Shout out to Nak and all others in this thread for the motivation and ideas. I scored some red & blue amsteel which makes me happy in the gear sorting department. Cool

I'm using the dark days to tune up some older bars that came to me in rough shape and shine up my others. I've included a photo of the typical failure point on my slingshot trim lines. The through-bar fitting wears the outer layer of the doubled up section on a stock trim line.
I pay a lot of attention to the sharpness of the bar where the trim line passes through. I routinely polish those areas down so they don't become too knife like. Makes a world of difference on trim line life.
I went ahead and renewed all my clamcleats also. You'll have to do some easy hand tapping if you buy a bag of clamcleats from a sailing shop. Worth it if you need to do several bars.

Thanks again folks

monk_e_boy · Since 09 Dec 2014 2 Posts New Member

Aeolus · Tue Dec 09, 14 9:45 pm

monk:

I would say that sharpening the cleat is a marginal idea...bordering on bad. If you were kiting some remote location and its the only cleat you had then maybe.... but throw down for a new cleat. They do wear to a point that the cleating action is compromised.

If you replaced the line with a factory made one you should have no slipping. If you used Nak's method here, the cleating action is improved with no slipping.

most retailers that stock slingshot can supply you with a cleat
windance has them for instance:
http://www.windance.com/Slingshot-CompStick-Trim-Cleat-KBKP3738/
You'll have to inquire whether they are a drop in replacement (I suspect they are with the mounting hole already drilled and tapped). Out of the factory those clam cleats do not have a 4mm x 0.7(pitch) tapped hole to accept a countersunk (flat) head stainless steel fastener 4mm x 0.7 x 16mm long. I refreshed 6 bars so it made sense to purchase a tap and make my own threaded holes in a bag of cleats (10 pcs) that cost about $4/each pc. (sea-dog.com) plus $7 for a tap. I had the drills needed for the job.

The clam cleat (CL712) specs are here:
http://www.clamcleat.com/uploads/cleat_installation_pdfs/CL712_Installation_Drg.pdf

The cleat is designed for a line diameter of 1/8" to 1/4" so take that into consideration if modding your setup. Nak's method with 1/8" amsteel gives you a finished double layer line that measures just under 0.25". I'm storm-chasing on the coast lately with my "new" bars... Nak's setup is solid. I'm getting better cleat holding/release action. Wicked low pressure setting up now for tomorrow & Thursday...should be interesting. Twisted Evil

monk_e_boy · Since 09 Dec 2014 2 Posts New Member

Thanks! (wish the forum had a 'like' button or similar Smile

)

Ho-Toe · Sun May 20, 18 9:58 pm **(bump)**

Most useful thread ever Very Happy