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Secret agent reports on Slingshot
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Post new topic   Reply to topic    Northwest Kiteboarding -> Gorge / Portland / Oregon Coast
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The minnow

Since 26 Jan 2009
395 Posts
argentina
Obsessed



PostSat May 29, 10 6:18 pm    Secret agent reports on Slingshot Reply with quote

After a long and debaited reviews, of most companies kites. I have came to buy two new kites for memorial day week end.
Am sure you will all be happy two know the reasons my choice.
.... 1- Slingshots 800lbs lines no other company comes even close to this quality. Attension to detail most notable the pig tails, this is so important.!!! These lines are so much easier to manage, and last longer, which makes safer riding. The stoper ball on ss is the better working unit, others are too stiff,
....2-Great backpack.< What happened to the stash your bar pocket,and dont forget .>
...3- Choice of sizes and modles & thier all good!! soon SS will offer 5 differant kites?
...4- Customer service, sling shot is not a back of the van deal. They are very family orientated, just listen when you call them, thier all a big family. There all thier mother, father, son, brother. That really makes me think, these people are helping each other work to achieve higher quality!!
...5-Little things go a long way( pump gauge)? So see you this year, on my rpm. or octane, and of corse i do demos just ask or see you in Santa Barbara,califofnia.

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-know as the SECRET AGENT-

Last edited by The minnow on Sat Jun 12, 10 8:34 am; edited 2 times in total

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Lurk

Since 04 Apr 2009
355 Posts

Obsessed



PostThu Jun 03, 10 8:50 am     Reply with quote

Just to set the record, I own an RPM and have had many SS kites going back to thier C kites. In all that time my main complaint is the bar.

1. A depower line below the bar using a cleat blows. Always has always will. Requires too much effort to reset on the water, Cleats stick. Its how they work. A strap is much easier and quicker.

2. The donkey dick needs to be on the side of the chicken loop. This allows the rider to disengage the dick when unhooking without it getting back in the way after the trick is done.

3. Make the dick itself a smaller diameter for easier insertion. My wife wishes the same thing.

4. Stop sending screrws that are to small to work on on the surfboards. Its annoying.

Many other kite companies have made these changes. SS needs to step up if they are going to charge $1899 for a new kite. Premium price means attention to detail.

On the positive side, the new swivel works better than anything on the market.

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Pete

Since 29 Oct 2007
843 Posts

Opinionated



PostThu Jun 03, 10 9:46 am     Reply with quote

I love the SS bars, the one thing that I don't like about them, is that when you depower the kite, it also shortens the throw of the bar, so your effective depower does not get greater.

Okay, two things, I wish they had some little bungees on the ends to keep the lines from coming off the bar when they are wrapped.

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pdxmonkeyboy

Since 16 May 2006
6081 Posts
forever labled as the
retired kiter & motorhead Unicorn Master



PostThu Jun 03, 10 10:49 am     Reply with quote

ok, since we are going to diss on SS technology. My FAVORITE thing about the SS bars (besides the donkey dick being in the way) is that little red safety release fucker. I have three SS bars and they all have the same issue. You look at that thing wrong and it pops open. I don't know how many times I've unhooked and then when hooking back in....SPROOING "hey WTF!!" my chicken loop is open.

I have really been thinking about just gluing the damn thing shut.

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shymac

Since 20 Jul 2005
919 Posts
Home Valley, Wa.
Bigfoot



PostThu Jun 03, 10 1:57 pm     Reply with quote

Diss all you want but most things can be fixed. As with this issue...

Since the bar was hand made in a rice field in Asia, most can be tune up a bit more. Especially the Direct Drive bars. The workers can only put so much load on the parts so as you start to kite, stuff can stretch out.

1. Huge Gap, gonna release any sec...
2. Unscrew and slide plastic o ring up as far as possible. Put some tension on the CL.
3. Screw back. New spot.

As with this case. Follow the 3 step photo process and your "Red Pull knob" will be much more secure and cut the "hey WTF my CL is open" by 95%...

next.


   Gap.jpg 
   Fixdagap.jpg 
   NoGap.jpg 

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Alien

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shymac

Since 20 Jul 2005
919 Posts
Home Valley, Wa.
Bigfoot



PostThu Jun 03, 10 2:04 pm     Reply with quote

Pete wrote:


Okay, two things, I wish they had some little bungees on the ends to keep the lines from coming off the bar when they are wrapped.


If you follow this process you will never need bungees. Proper "roll-up" of the bar will lead to faster setup times.

http://www.vimeo.com/2828740

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Alien

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pdxmonkeyboy

Since 16 May 2006
6081 Posts
forever labled as the
retired kiter & motorhead Unicorn Master



PostThu Jun 03, 10 2:14 pm     Reply with quote

shy.. so your saying that I should move the sleeve up towards the release mech? Wouldn't that in effect make the chicken loop shorter inside there, making it easier to release?

I dunno, just feeling dense today. I tried wrapping the red knob in electric tape to make it a little harder to pull but it (predictably) got all gummed up.

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shymac

Since 20 Jul 2005
919 Posts
Home Valley, Wa.
Bigfoot



PostThu Jun 03, 10 2:16 pm     Reply with quote

Lurk wrote:
Just to set the record, I own an RPM and have had many SS kites going back to thier C kites. In all that time my main complaint is the bar.

1. A depower line below the bar using a cleat blows. Always has always will. Requires too much effort to reset on the water, Cleats stick. Its how they work. A strap is much easier and quicker. Below the bar cleat but with the 2010 its a micro cleat that doesn't eat the rope nor stick as much.

2. The donkey dick needs to be on the side of the chicken loop. This allows the rider to disengage the dick when unhooking without it getting back in the way after the trick is done. Donkey means Donkey.

3. Make the dick itself a smaller diameter for easier insertion. My wife wishes the same thing. Personal issue.

4. Stop sending screrws that are to small to work on on the surfboards. Its annoying. Thats been fixed.

Many other kite companies have made these changes. SS needs to step up if they are going to charge $1899 for a new kite. Premium price means attention to detail.

On the positive side, the new swivel works better than anything on the market.


Thanks for the feedback... I always keep up to date with our customers needs and pass this along to R&D as much as possible.

1. Below the bar cleat but with the 2010 its a micro cleat that doesn't eat the rope nor stick as much.

2. Donkey means Donkey. Hopefully someday, no one will ever use that dam donkey.

3. Personal issue.

4. No doubt.. Thats been fixed, i hate it too.

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Alien

Last edited by shymac on Thu Jun 03, 10 2:21 pm; edited 1 time in total

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shymac

Since 20 Jul 2005
919 Posts
Home Valley, Wa.
Bigfoot



PostThu Jun 03, 10 2:19 pm     Reply with quote

pdxmonkeyboy wrote:
shy.. so your saying that I should move the sleeve up towards the release mech? Wouldn't that in effect make the chicken loop shorter inside there, making it easier to release?

I dunno, just feeling dense today. I tried wrapping the red knob in electric tape to make it a little harder to pull but it (predictably) got all gummed up.


Nope, just slide it up, it won't shorten anything. That sleeve makes the CL tighter against the red knob pin. Making it not release so easily. Try it then let me know what you think?

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Alien

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FlyDunes

Since 09 Oct 2007
1034 Posts
Aloha
XTreme Poster



PostThu Jun 03, 10 2:39 pm     Reply with quote

Pete wrote:
I love the SS bars, the one thing that I don't like about them, is that when you depower the kite, it also shortens the throw of the bar, so your effective depower does not get greater.

Okay, two things, I wish they had some little bungees on the ends to keep the lines from coming off the bar when they are wrapped.



They should look at Ozone's use of bar-end bungees (if it's not copyrighted). The Ozone bungees retract inside the bar so they don't get in the way while you are wrapping the lines. Works like a champ.

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Pete

Since 29 Oct 2007
843 Posts

Opinionated



PostThu Jun 03, 10 3:06 pm     Reply with quote

shymac wrote:
Pete wrote:


Okay, two things, I wish they had some little bungees on the ends to keep the lines from coming off the bar when they are wrapped.


If you follow this process you will never need bungees. Proper "roll-up" of the bar will lead to faster setup times.

http://www.vimeo.com/2828740


What about the depower issue? I think if you're going to depower your kite, the throw of the bar should stay the same, effectively allowing additional depower beyond what you had prior to pulling in the depower.

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Kataku2k3

Since 14 Aug 2005
3753 Posts
Los Angeles, CA
Videographer



PostThu Jun 03, 10 3:53 pm     Reply with quote

What Shy said for the release works great on the '07-09 bars. The CL core stretches a good 0.25" over time and makes the release ultra-sensitive, when unloaded (which is the time you're probably reaching down to hook back in).

And as far as the depower goes, that is in place so that you can't depower the kite beyond the point where it wants to invert. Not a big issue on the newer kites, but it did make sense with the first gen TDs. If you need more depower, get a smaller kite or edge harder. Wink

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pkh

Since 27 Feb 2005
6549 Posts
Couve / Hood
Honored Founder



PostThu Jun 03, 10 3:57 pm     Reply with quote

I'd say add a small ball between the depower sheeting handle and the cleat as many modders have already done. It keeps the depower sheeting handle from getting sucked all the way in to "boner mode" and it would give you a little more leverage in pulling on the rope. Even on the 2010 bar the depower sheet cleat is still too difficult IMO.

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Moto

Since 03 Sep 2006
2698 Posts
Still a gojo pimp!
Moto Mouth



PostThu Jun 03, 10 4:28 pm     Reply with quote

shymac wrote:
Pete wrote:


Okay, two things, I wish they had some little bungees on the ends to keep the lines from coming off the bar when they are wrapped.


If you follow this process you will never need bungees. Proper "roll-up" of the bar will lead to faster setup times.

http://www.vimeo.com/2828740


Hey Shy, thanks for the post on the bar. Looks like it will work. But have you tried that knot type technique in a self-rescue. How long does it take you to unroll those bad boys?

Also, wouldn't some bungees be easier and faster? Just sayin. I went to Michaels fabrics and bought some nylong bungee thread material and added it to the ends of my bars.

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pdxmonkeyboy

Since 16 May 2006
6081 Posts
forever labled as the
retired kiter & motorhead Unicorn Master



PostThu Jun 03, 10 4:41 pm     Reply with quote

moto. The half hitch is money in a self rescue situation. It comes done very easily. I always half hitch my lines.

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kitezilla

Since 22 Jun 2006
453 Posts
gorge
Obsessed



PostThu Jun 03, 10 7:05 pm     Reply with quote

Throwing some half-hitch knots around your bar, every time you wind up your lines gives you an opportunity to practice one important element of a self-rescue. Practice makes perfect. Here is a link to a thread on KF, where I go to great lengths to illustrate a technique that has worked well for me for about 8 years. The key point of the technique involves holding the bar with your KNEES, while you position your one hand, grasp the lines, rotate that hand and assist with the other hand to "funnel" your lines over the end of the bar. A series of pictures shows the sequence involving the two hands, while the bar is held between the legs. I do the technique in the water and on dry land exactly the same way. It allows you the best control of the multiple lines, by giving you control over the tension of the lines...like a weaver needs to have in order to successfully work on a loom.

http://www.kiteforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2347460&start=0

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kitebot

Since 20 Feb 2007
251 Posts

Obsessed



PostThu Jun 03, 10 7:33 pm     Reply with quote

Pete wrote:
I love the SS bars, the one thing that I don't like about them, is that when you depower the kite, it also shortens the throw of the bar, so your effective depower does not get greater.

Okay, two things, I wish they had some little bungees on the ends to keep the lines from coming off the bar when they are wrapped.


Regarding your second point, I've gotten around this on my SS bar by looping elastics around the leader lines between the bar ends and the floaters. Well actually I just cut thin slices of a bike inner tube in the shape of elastics. It's effectively the same as having bungees built in to the bar. This works with any bar.

Not to hijack, but on the topic of line management, after screwing around for a few seasons with overpriced line managers, twigs and anything to tie off my lines after disconnecting from my kite, I've started doing as shown in the illustration below. This keeps the lines from tangling amongst themselves and makes it super easy to walk your lines next time around. Using this technique on my old "classic" kites I can be rigged faster than most kiters rigging one-pump kites.

Shymac - Thanks for the tip about sliding the sleeve. I haven't had the release problem but will check it out.


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