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noob board repair
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jdubs

Since 21 May 2008
36 Posts

 



PostWed Mar 04, 09 9:46 pm    noob board repair Reply with quote

I got this board for $70 and some of the inserts look pretty torn up. I think the board is either 2005 or 2006. I also got the heel straps because I'm a noob who doesn't want to lose his board first time riding it. And I wanted to try the sport out before I went out and dropped a grip on a new board. With the old straps and the heel straps there doesn't seam to be a lot of screw in the board after I tighten it down. The screw is about a 3/4" Long. see link. Screw

A couple of questions. First is that the standard screw used with boards? I would have figured on a bolt with tighter threads. Is also almost looks like there is no screw insert and the screw was just screwed down into the fiberglass/board material.
Inserts

I'm guessing that I will have to get new inserts installed which I'm planning on having a local surfboard shaper here in Corvallis do. What are the standard distances between holes for foot straps and the board handle? Thanks.

Inserts
Board

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Kataku2k3

Since 14 Aug 2005
3753 Posts
Los Angeles, CA
Videographer



PostWed Mar 04, 09 10:20 pm     Reply with quote

First off, the board you have is from ~2003. It's before SS started using standard 1/4-20 inserts as they do now ("plastic" self-taping inserts are from '04 and older Slingy boards). And the screws you have are indeed the OEM ones.

As far as repairing it goes... You do have several options, but money is probably the biggest factor. How much are you willing to spend? I'm sure a surf shop wouldn't have any problems dropping in some new inserts whether they're actual threaded stainless ones, or some nylon/plastic shit, but how much is it going to cost? Probably more than the board is worth. And if you're going to put $$$ into that, why not just get a newer board? Board technology has changed a lot. If it's more than you want to spend, I'd honestly probably just drill all the way through the inserts/board and install some T-bolts on the base. Cosmetically it won't be the prettiest, but trust me, it'll hold 100 times better than the stock ones ever did.

If you did this, you would HAVE to drill through the OEM holes/inserts. Drilling anywhere else would cause you a complete nightmare as there's nothing but foam (which would collapse if you cranked a bolt down on it). Others may recommend trying to use an epoxy filler in the holes, but I personally wouldn't bother with it. Tried it back in day on my '03 SX 136, and it never held...

Last edited by Kataku2k3 on Wed Mar 04, 09 10:27 pm; edited 1 time in total

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jsj

Since 11 Sep 2006
83 Posts
Hood River
 



PostWed Mar 04, 09 10:22 pm     Reply with quote

You are correct - no inserts.

Some boards have plastic blocks laminated in and use self-threading screws; yours appears to be one of those. Odds are good that you can move both bindings an inch (2.5cm) and drill new pilot (undersized) holes, put in the same screw and off you go. This actually gives you the opportunity to customize the board to fit you which is a good thing.

I'll go out on a limb here and suggest you lose the heel straps for several reasons
1. getting into them is going to get you yarded while you are learning and trying to fiddle with the straps when you should be flying the kite
2. you should learn to body drag early anyway
3. personally, in a big crash, I want my board to be somewhere else. You are asking for a torn ACL or whatever by keeping a big honking board attached to you (wake types, flame away!)

Finally, threaded inserts are used for a machine screw. Different brands have different spacing and hardware. 1/4-20 thread is on Slingshot and M6 is on Naish (or I may have that backwards, doesn't matter, I keep both in my kit...). Putting them in is going to cost you - I'd guess at least $50 and probably more like $75 - which is what you paid for the board in first place if I remember correctly. If money really is a problem, you can use flathead screws, countersink the bottom of the board and run them up to nylock nuts on top of the board.

Kiteboarding is expensive. A $75 board will give $75 results...

Good Luck

-j

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pdxmonkeyboy

Since 16 May 2006
6081 Posts
forever labled as the
retired kiter & motorhead Unicorn Master



PostThu Mar 05, 09 6:57 am     Reply with quote

Ugggh, those boards are still in circulation Crying or Very sad

The easiest fix is going to be to go get a slightly larger screw. As other said. I wouldn't waste much time or money putting new inserts in. The last thing is that if your trying to learn, that board is really going to do more harm then good. The shape of that thing really lends itself to loosing its edge and skipping across the water. Boards have come a long long way and while its important to have a good kite (I shudder to think what kite your planning on flying) I think that argument can be made that the single biggest piece of gear that determines how you ride has got to be the board. So along those lines, I think saving money to buy a decent board should be your highest priority.

Have fun and BE SAFE!!

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Bettyboarder

Since 18 Mar 2005
1823 Posts
PDX/ White Salmon
XTreme Poster



PostThu Mar 05, 09 7:13 am     Reply with quote

Talk to Hein he has some foot pad that just stick to any board.....then you dont have to deal with the whole drilling thing.

or try these

http://www.northshoreinc.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=64&idproduct=159

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gorgebob

Since 25 Jun 2007
259 Posts
Portland, OR
Shop Owner



PostThu Mar 05, 09 7:57 am     Reply with quote

Got a Jiame in yesterday with the insert spinning and screw stuck in the insert. I will document the repair event . If it comes out well I might even share it with you'all.
_________________
Gorge Performance
http://www.gorgeperformance.com/
Surf, Snow, Kite, Sail, Skate – Since 1983
Portland
503-246-6646

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tstansbury

Since 06 Jun 2006
649 Posts
Rowena and P.C
Addicted



PostThu Mar 05, 09 8:15 am     Reply with quote

I would spend very little money on the repair. you can get a much more modern board for the price of having that on repaired. like everyone said just oversize drill it if that does not work go to the t nuts thru the bottom and look for a good deal on a used board from 06 07.

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eric

Since 13 Jan 2006
1872 Posts

XTreme Poster



PostThu Mar 05, 09 8:19 am     Reply with quote

That board will be just fine to learn on. Put some bigger screws in and learn on it until they blow out. Then, with your new found kiteboarding skilz treat yourself to something newer.

Kiteboarding is 90% flying the kite. The board is something that happens to be on your feet.

My $0.02

Eric

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Hein

Since 08 Mar 2005
1314 Posts

Possessed



PostThu Mar 05, 09 8:56 am     Reply with quote

The Drake, Circa 2002, Probably the closest production board to Doyle's coveted 6 fin twin:



One of the boards Adam Koch took to the top of the sport.

I created CAD models from John's prototypes for that board and machined the cores. It was molded by Gary Swanson and Fred Stang at Cascade Fiberglass in Mosier. A good kid named Larry was doing the prep, helping load the presses and drilling all those holes in production. I remember the plastic blocks for the foot straps and there was also no reinforcement around the fin holes. Kite board production 'technology' was just starting to evolve. The Drake was well received in the market. Everyone in the Gorge had one.

Get a newer board. They are much better these days. The Drake was a great board. It was well matched to the kites of the day. But you won't be flying a kite like that so you need a newer board.

Eric wrote:
Kiteboarding is 90% flying the kite. The board is something that happens to be on your feet.Eric

Eric is wrong, the board is vitally important. Sorry Eric.

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Kataku2k3

Since 14 Aug 2005
3753 Posts
Los Angeles, CA
Videographer



PostThu Mar 05, 09 9:04 am     Reply with quote

Listen to Hein, he knows what he's talking about! Thumb's Up

My '03 SX did however have the plastic blocks for the fins. Don't know if the production Drakes were any different, though it doesn't matter here. These plastic blocks are identical to the ones that your straps screw into.


The start of my SX 103... I don't know what I was thinking.
 The start of my SX 103... I don't know what I was thinking.  SX_chop.jpg 

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pdxmonkeyboy

Since 16 May 2006
6081 Posts
forever labled as the
retired kiter & motorhead Unicorn Master



PostThu Mar 05, 09 9:15 am     Reply with quote

Adam, I guess you can file cutting your board in half under R&D. I did the same thing to a doyle I found in the rocks near the white salmon bridge. It looked like it had been floating in the river since 2003 Laughing Laughing . I choped the nose and tail off to make a slider board. ummmm guess I should have measured it first. Now its too short to do much of anything with...

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tonyb

Since 09 Oct 2006
973 Posts
Stevenson in the summer & SPI in the winter
Bolstad Clan



PostThu Mar 05, 09 10:00 am     Reply with quote

Get a new(er) board. Those boards were fine in their day but a good board really does make a difference in getting and staying up wind. I spent three months on a SS Misty board working my tail off to stay upwind. As soon as I switched to a board with less rocker and straighter lines it was like night and day. Best thing you can do with that board is to hang it on the wall and admire the pretty graphics.

Tony

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Nak

Since 19 May 2005
4313 Posts
Camas
Site Lackey

CGKA Member


PostThu Mar 05, 09 10:16 am     Reply with quote

What Tony said. Buff it out and hang it on the wall. In 20 years it will be an antique and look cool. Riders will say "Wow, look at that. Can you believe people actually rode that?"

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Hein

Since 08 Mar 2005
1314 Posts

Possessed



PostThu Mar 05, 09 10:37 am     Reply with quote

Nak wrote:
What Tony said. Buff it out and hang it on the wall. In 20 years it will be an antique and look cool. Riders will say "Wow, look at that. Can you believe people actually rode that?"


No they won't. It's just an old production POS. Stuff it in a dumpster.

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jdubs

Since 21 May 2008
36 Posts

 



PostThu Mar 05, 09 1:31 pm     Reply with quote

Thanks guys. I figured you would all say get a new board... Ill take it into consideration. And I'm flying 2007 Yargas.

I tried to do a search on the site for a good beginner board but wasn't able to narrow the results down. Looking for something that would be beginner friendly but wont hinder my progression. I have quite a bit of surfing history and once I get comfortable strapped I'll be trying out my short board. Ill be at the coast more often then inland so something somewhat wave friendly would be cool. Any ideas. Thanks again.

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pdxmonkeyboy

Since 16 May 2006
6081 Posts
forever labled as the
retired kiter & motorhead Unicorn Master



PostThu Mar 05, 09 1:39 pm     Reply with quote

my recommendation would by a slingshot fuse.

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tinyE

Since 21 Jan 2006
2004 Posts
not really an
XTreme Poster



PostThu Mar 05, 09 2:13 pm     Reply with quote

pdxmonkeyboy wrote:
my recommendation would by a slingshot fuse.


i just so happen to have one for sale, cheap!

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