Design for slider, need comments...

pdxmonkeyboy · Sun Oct 12, 08 4:09 pm **Design for slider, need comments...**

So since I have ALL this free time (and we are going to be at the shop welding a winch in the near future) I thought we should weld up a couple amausement park accessories cause that shit is FUN!

Anyways, I have this idea for a slider. The frame and legs are 2" or 11/2" square steel. It will be essentially one rail of steel that will serve as the backbone and then the pvc rails will be supported by risers that can be moved up and down independently. Each half of the slider will be 10' long and have two legs. The two halfs of the slider will lock together using 4 door hinges.

The risers that support the tubes will be like a u shaped "tray" and the pipe and the spacers that go in between the pipes will be held in place with a long piece of threaded rod.

Ideally, you could move the risers up and down (securing them with pins) and make new rail shapes, which would be super money. The problem I am having is that the first riser can connect with a single bolt. But the distance between the remaining holes (and risers) will change based on the shape of the pvc pipes. So should I route slots in the pvc? Or perhaps just weld a couple more attachemetn point on the main backbone for the risers to attach?

Lastly, a simple T leg design will work for HR, but when we want to set this up at the airport or sauvie, the bank is steeply sloped. So I was thinking that the vertical legs could be attached to the long bases via a plate with several holes that would allow the base supports (the part on the ground) to be angled (again by using a pin.)

Look at the drawing if your confused.

Done right, I am thinking that a 20' slider can be built much lighter than the wood ones and can be separated in half for transport.

arehn · Since 24 Mar 2008 166 Posts Hood River, OR Stoked

thats a filthy plan i like the idea of being able to change the shape of the rail. i think that the slot idea is the best idea to make the rail able to change shape. the one thing that might be kind of tough is finding out how to make it portable. but good luck on building that it looks like a ton of fun

pdxmonkeyboy · Sun Oct 12, 08 5:04 pm

arehn · Since 24 Mar 2008 166 Posts Hood River, OR Stoked

what about just using like a pice of wood with holes drilled in it like halfway and then glueing the pipes in there so the pipes do not seperate?

hamlindp · Sun Oct 12, 08 6:20 pm

The pice of wood would swell when wet. This could either make the splice hold, or it could split the PVC.

Maybe a short length of PVC, whose O.D. matches the I.D. of the PVC being spliced.

Then you could drill both insert and the rail, on both sides of the splice, and send some allthread through the whole shmeer and "nut" it in place, just like you anchored the rest of the rail.

arehn · Since 24 Mar 2008 166 Posts Hood River, OR Stoked

oo ya good point. but u could also fiberglass the wood but ur pvc idea sounds like the most practical.

pdxmonkeyboy · Sun Oct 12, 08 7:03 pm

Hein · Since 08 Mar 2005 1314 Posts Possessed

slit & squeeze or get some of these.

pdxmonkeyboy · Sun Oct 12, 08 8:31 pm

Chooch · Sun Oct 12, 08 8:46 pm

Sick looking plans MB. 2' Sounds a bit wide to me, I would like to see something similar to the pickle (possibly a few inches wider).

pdxmonkeyboy · Mon Oct 13, 08 4:19 pm

bump to the top to gain some stoke (i.e. a chance for people to say "Hell yah dude, spend $125 on steel and build that thing!!!)

Receiver steel is EXPENSIVE!! like $16 a foot. (receiver steel is designed so that 2 x2 steel stock will fit tightly into it). Its the base for the riser thingie majigs

Chooch · Mon Oct 13, 08 4:23 pm

What about building the base out of uni-strut? There are hundreds of tuning options with that stuff and it might be cheaper???

http://www.unistrut.com/literature/index.php?doc=No14&pg=1

pdxmonkeyboy · Mon Oct 13, 08 4:36 pm

Your supposed to say "dude, that's sweet build that shit and lets hit it"

The base isn't that expensive its just that stuff adds up.

The 20' long 2 x2 which is the main backbone is $50. Then there is the leg and riser tubing which is another $50 but we can build our entire winch with the excess Twisted Evil

throw some 3/4 angle in there for the trays to hold the tubing, some receiver stock and 140' of 2" pvc.... and all of a sudden you realize why people aren't building sliders left and right.

But shit, its steel- it will last longer than we will.

Chooch · Mon Oct 13, 08 4:45 pm

Yeah I have no problem throwing some more cash around to build that shit. Once I get back to work in a month or so I will have access to a lot of leftover steel, pvc, and what ever else we need to bulid other features.

On a side note I spent about an hour on Google earth and found some nice local spots to poach once this shit is up and running. Twisted Evil

pdxmonkeyboy · Mon Oct 13, 08 5:03 pm

yeah, bummer about the cosco canada thing. Sad

Chooch · Mon Oct 13, 08 5:19 pm

Been reading some of the winch forums and they all have had issues with their knock off motors. It sounds like it would be a good idea to invest a little bit more in a name brand motor, always been a firm believer in "you get what you pay for". Just might save us some headaches in the long run

pdxmonkeyboy · Mon Oct 13, 08 5:26 pm

Brand new honda GX 200 shipped to the door for $300. Honda's are the bomb and all but..

I read on the go-kart forums that people dug the knock offs, especially the champion cosco one. I hear you on quality but over the entire day on saturday how long did you think the engine ran? 30 minutes? maybe.

A used honda would be money. None on CL right now.