Broken Slingshot Bar

D-Dub · Since 19 Jun 2007 30 Posts Bend

The rope attached to my chicken loop broke last weekend. Does anyone know where to go for a replacement rope and chicken loop, or if it can be repaired?

Happened at Whiskey Run - after doing a super sweet unhooked face-plant my kite was gobbled by a wave. It all washed up before I did, but unfortunately, the kite did not survive.

On the plus side the incident motivated me to buy a rev as a replacement, but I still need the 2:1 bar to fly my old kites.

Thanks in advance for any help -

forrest · Wed Aug 27, 08 9:17 am

It all comes apart and you can replace the rope.

Kataku2k3 · Since 14 Aug 2005 3753 Posts Los Angeles, CA Videographer

Exactly what Forrest said...

Did you lose the stopper ball and all, or do ya still have it? If so, that's going to be a spendy fix... The Active stopper balls alone are ~$50.

Just check and I guess it's not listed on their site, but PM Shy about it.

It'll look similar to the '06 pictured in the link below, just longer for the newer below the bar trim setups.
http://buyslingshotsports.com/s.nl/it.A/id.142/.f?sc=2&category=4214

EDIT: I actually don't know why it's not on there. When I did the product pics, I was pretty sure I snapped the new one, so I browsed through my stuff and sure enough...

Nak · Wed Aug 27, 08 9:40 am

There's a brief description in this thread on how to make a depower rope.

http://www.nwkite.com/forums/t-7571.html&highlight=rev+pulley

scroll down to my post on adding a pulley to a rev bar. It's pretty easy to make your own line and it only costs a couple of bucks. You need 1/4" Amsteel line, that's the same line as stock. You can pick up the line at West Marine, or it's a LOT cheaper at Seattle Marine or Redden Marine. (Both in Seattle.) Google for them. If you order online, pick up a bunch, as it's pretty cheap. That way you'll have extra on hand for later replacements.

Amsteel is great line, but it should be replaced when it shows noticeable fraying. Due to the weave of the line, the fraying can critically weaken the line even if it doesn't look so bad. It only takes a few minutes to change and costs a couple of dollars, so change it often! Adjust the length of the new rope to tune your lines back to equal length.

D-Dub · Since 19 Jun 2007 30 Posts Bend

Thanks all, incredibly helpful. My rope is on its way.

Within an hour of posting I had multiple, detailed solutions. NWkite is one of a kind.

stringy · Since 23 Jun 2006 1738 Posts vancouver XTreme Poster

before installing your new rope, inspect your dugout around the diameter area for possible wear.
On numerous SS bars, I have witnessed excessive wear along the sheetmetal dugout and when the rope with sand, rubs along the walls, it basically will sand down the wall thickness to a knife edge.
Once the wall is compromised, the rope will cut faster than you will know.
By the way Nak, nice retro on the other thread. I missed that one from a while back.
I added a pulley to my rev bar and really enjoy the responsiveness with the sheeting now.
I made some other mods that make this bar more fun than ever.

Nak · Wed Aug 27, 08 6:27 pm

Thanks Stringy!

Good info on the SS insert, I totaly forgot about that. I know that's been a problem. (I'm pretty sure thats been fixed on the new bars...) I haven't had the problem with my bars. Have you tried to smooth out the bars you've seen like that, or do they have to be replaced once that happenns?

I'd like to see your other mods too. Knowing you, I'm sure they're pretty cool. Very Happy

I've made my own active stopper ball that I like, and I use a different chicken loop.

Ghostrider · Since 16 Jul 2007 8 Posts New Member

I had 3 different SS bars do this to me and left me stranded and swimming in. SS decided that a 10 thousanths thick dugout would be ok...this is a little bit thicker than a sheet of paper. I replaced it with a custom machined dugout that is 4 times as thick. PM stingy for details and good luck with the bar. I know 2nd wind carries the amsteel replacement. I wouldn't get the ss replacement dugout because in 4-6 months it will just happen again - that was my experience anyway

Kataku2k3 · Since 14 Aug 2005 3753 Posts Los Angeles, CA Videographer

Ghostrider, do you ride unhooked a lot? We do quite a bit, and it does take a while to beat up the dugout.

Ghostrider · Since 16 Jul 2007 8 Posts New Member

I do ride unhooked a fair amount - but I think this flaw was mostly due to the fact that ss put such a thin dugout in the bar. I think SS was aware of the problem because they are using thicker dugouts now. It doesn't take long to wear thru 10 thousandths thick sheet metal - especially for those who are riding in saltwater most of the time. I know a handful of people who have had the same problem. Like I said above I think SS was aware of the problem and this did not affect to many people

cheers

Kataku2k3 · Since 14 Aug 2005 3753 Posts Los Angeles, CA Videographer

Cool, cool. Yeah, I thought you meant it was happening to ya with the newer bars. Not going to have that problem with the LEN10 bar either! Thumb's Up

Hein · Since 08 Mar 2005 1314 Posts Possessed

Here's a stopper ball setup that you can make for a few bucks.

It doesn't jam inside the dugout so it might be easier on your line
& bar. You can get the ball and ring from NSI. They sell the line
too. I designed a ProLoop a few years back but there was very
little interest at the time. Maybe because there was no release.
You have to pull down and let the loop fall out of your harness
hook.

If you are serious about riding you should learn how to set up
a custom bar.

stringy · Since 23 Jun 2006 1738 Posts vancouver XTreme Poster

the problems I experienced and witnessed on the SS bars were bars from I recall 2006-7.
The Rev bar seems to be built differently and is much better.

As for the images below, these are my bar with the current mods.

In no way do I want to come across in a disrespectful manner towards Slingshot and their product.
Slingshot builds a high quality product at a good value to the consumer.
I am one of those riders who like to make enhancements to a product to allow better performance.
I am sure there are many others who like to do the same and add their own preferences. I am fortunate because I have the luxury of a machine shop at my disposal.

I eliminated the following from the bar.
1/4" line
stopper
sheeter grab handle

I added 3/16" AMSTEEL rope. I like the feel of this rope and how responsive my bar is with less resistance through the dugout. To compensate for the smaller diameter line through the chicken loop bearing and cleat block, I use a fid and double up the diameter by feeding the rope into itself where I need the larger diameter.

I added a stringy stopper. this stopper works on the smaller rope.
It also has the ability to push away when I want it to by pushing the bar away. the stock safety line runs through a center hole and will still function independantly whether stopper is engaged or not.
I like how the safety line is now centered in the hole, having no interference with the stopper and rope lines.

I added a loop for the grab handle. Lightweight and simple, allows grabbing and sheeting with ease.

I added a Ronstan pulley to the loop where the rope used to go through.
I also added some shock cord to the bar ends to allow securing the lines when lines are rolled up.

all materials, except the stopper, were purchased from Fisheries Supply up here in Seattle. rope is like 75 cents per foot. pulley around $10.
I grow the stoppers on a rare tree in my backyard...

FlyDunes · Since 09 Oct 2007 1034 Posts Aloha XTreme Poster

What a great article. Thanks!

Is that the Amsteel "Blue" line? How do it's abrasion characteristics compare to the regular Amsteel line?

I would guess that the thinner diameter line might actually work better with the existing cleat. Did you try it out with the 3/16" diameter before you "fattened up" the rope at the cleat end? And wouldn't you have to fid quite a bit of rope, through the entire range you might pull for depower, if the cleat doesn't work well with 3/16" rope?

Nak · Sun Aug 31, 08 10:46 am

Amsteel 3/16 works just fine with the stock cleat. I just started using the blue, so I don't have any long term wear results yet. Maybe Stringy does?

Stringy, can you push through your stopper if you need to?

D-Dub · Since 19 Jun 2007 30 Posts Bend

Thanks for the tips - bought some 1/4 amsteel - only took a few minutes to replace, and works great.

It was such an easy and cheap replacement process that in the future I will replace as soon as the rope shows wear.

PS - If you're considering replacing - do it! If it breaks while riding not only will there be swimming, but also kite loss since both the cl and the leash will be disconnected from the kite.

stringy · Since 23 Jun 2006 1738 Posts vancouver XTreme Poster

Nak,
the stopper is designed so you can push it away. in order to push it away, you must push the abr away from you to allow it to depower.

FlyDunes
the smaller blue amsteel is a higher quality than the gray amsteel. I have noticed it doesn't wear as quick as the gray line. the load strength is 5400 pounds compared to the gray at 5000.
I tend to replace it about twice a year or before I leave on an international trip where it might be hard to replace when abroad. I kite pretty much year round.
I tried not doubling up the diameter, but the gap is too great in the inside hole of the cleatblock. you should double it through the cleatblock and the chicken loop assembly. I don't think it would be assembled adequately if you tried to do it without doubling it up.
Once again, I only feed the rope inside itself for about 6 inches to build up the diameter through the chicken loop body and the cleatblock. it then becomes a smaller diameter for the remainder of the line length.
When I first tried this line with this cleat, the line didn't hold adequately. Once I got it wet and used it after a session, it held just fine.
I now use 3/16 Amsteel line on all my control bars.