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Leaky valve area

 
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Sasquatch

Since 09 Mar 2005
1852 Posts
P-town
STACKED



PostTue Aug 25, 20 12:28 pm    Leaky valve area Reply with quote

So my nephew pickup kiting last year and has progressed a lot.

He has incurred a leaking center strut. I had him pump up his kite the other night and he learned the soapy water spray bottle method for detecting leaks. Sure enough, the nipple area was the problem area. I do not think or believe that the valve stem is the issue, but rather the area where the two plastics (of the nipple and the strut/bladder) are pressed and glued together.

Sure we can go to Airtime and buy a new one or buy one and have it shipped and I'll show him how to take out the damaged one and install a new one with string and some baby powder.

I want my nephew to go through the process of fixing his kite because he'll learn how it was assembled and how to fix it if he should encounter this problem again. Sometimes Airtime or a shop isn't open or nearby when one is kiting, so it is a good skill to know.

So my question to you is how to fix a leak if the leak is in the area of the press/bonded plastics (nipple and strut/bladder). I've never had to fix a leak of this sort.

Does vinyl glue work well?

http://www.nwkite.com/forums/t-17816.html&highlight=valve

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sfbomber

Since 27 Jun 2012
97 Posts

 



PostTue Aug 25, 20 12:39 pm     Reply with quote

I always use aquaseal glue. Be careful when pealing the valve off as you don't want to tear the bladder. If stubborn, you can dip the valve in a pot of hot water. Clean both surfaces with rubbing alcohol. This is a common failure point, but once glued, is as good as new (if not better as it will likely not re-occur). Airtime valves are expensive, especially when you need to replace all the valves on a kite, versus a cheap stick of glue.
Other glues mentioned here:
https://kiteforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2407054&p=1103502#p1103502

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craz z

Since 01 Dec 2008
122 Posts
Montana
Stoked



PostTue Aug 25, 20 2:51 pm     Reply with quote

A lot of times modern valve nipples are heat welded. Fixing those are not easy or very temporary with glues. They also tend to break near the base of the stem.

Glues also require cure time aka no kiting that day. Some get lucky and hold and back on the water. Many hold til you push that last breath of air in the bladder and wooooshhh back to square one.

Your best bet is still going to airtime and buying some spare parts. valve trap and new nipple are the easiest way to fix a heat welded nipple. or even other types of valves. I carry a pack of the traps and a few nipples in my fixit kit.

No matter what i'm off to get a bladder or strut bladder for long term fix. Its not worth the lost session dealing with fixits.

You still have to learn the fundamentals of tying strings and pulling bladders and how to disassemble your kite. I've done it in as small as a rv and its challenging but can save the day if in a remote location.

Great lesson for any kiter to learn!

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Nak

Since 19 May 2005
3886 Posts
Camas
XTreme Poster

CGKA Member


PostTue Aug 25, 20 5:09 pm     Reply with quote

craz z wrote:
A lot of times modern valve nipples are heat welded. Fixing those are not easy or very temporary with glues. They also tend to break near the base of the stem.

Glues also require cure time aka no kiting that day. Some get lucky and hold and back on the water. Many hold til you push that last breath of air in the bladder and wooooshhh back to square one.

Your best bet is still going to airtime and buying some spare parts. valve trap and new nipple are the easiest way to fix a heat welded nipple. or even other types of valves. I carry a pack of the traps and a few nipples in my fixit kit.

No matter what i'm off to get a bladder or strut bladder for long term fix. Its not worth the lost session dealing with fixits.

You still have to learn the fundamentals of tying strings and pulling bladders and how to disassemble your kite. I've done it in as small as a rv and its challenging but can save the day if in a remote location.

Great lesson for any kiter to learn!


This.

I'll add if the valves aren't heat welded using a hair dryer or heat gun will generally let you take off the old valve. The issue today is that you really need the 90% or higher rubbing alcohol to clean the area, and in this day and age that can be hard to find. Using lower concentrations of alcohol can work, but it can also leave a residue that will cause the new joint to fail. Once the old valve is off the new airtime valves stick right on and can be used immediately. That said, if you can leave them a few hours the adhesive will continue to cure. Overnight is best, but usually not required.

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shred_da_gorge

Since 12 Nov 2008
947 Posts

Opinionated



PostTue Aug 25, 20 6:02 pm     Reply with quote

So the takeaway is hot-weld yer nipples?

Honey, get the candles out again...

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Sasquatch

Since 09 Mar 2005
1852 Posts
P-town
STACKED



PostWed Aug 26, 20 10:48 am     Reply with quote

Got a PM from Jeremy about his fix with Vinyl glue, so I thought I would post that for all to see http://www.nwkite.com/forums/t-17816.html&highlight=valve:

"Vinyl glue works great. I've also used seam sealer, but the bond isn't as solid, it's possible to pull apart, but I heard it's more solid if you clean with alcohol beforehand (I didn't). Vinyl glue kind of melts the plastics together, so don't use too much. I had a system to protect the inside of the bladder from sticking together (like a piece of wax paper), and a round ring that would press down around the nipple so the skirt wouldn't get any air bubbles in it, let is sit overnight, then pull out the wax paper though the valve (or just leave in, no biggie)."

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dangler

Since 26 Feb 2006
1500 Posts
WINDY SPOTS
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PostWed Aug 26, 20 12:23 pm    tear aid Reply with quote

Tear-aid tape works too. I buy the roll on Amazon. Its three inches wide so you can cut out a circle for valves. A little tricky to work with cause if you touch it to anything its stuck for good! Type A for bladders.
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sfbomber

Since 27 Jun 2012
97 Posts

 



PostThu Aug 27, 20 12:57 pm     Reply with quote

One trick I found with Tear-Aid is to chill it before use. I place the patch on an ice block, before application. This allows you more working time, as once it touches at room temperature, it sets.

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