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DIY Sliding Rope Spreader

 
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Slappysan

Since 13 Jun 2012
181 Posts

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PostWed Sep 27, 17 2:12 pm    DIY Sliding Rope Spreader Reply with quote

I ride Dakine Nitrous shorts and picked up the Dakine Maniac spreader bar last year and absolutely hated it.

So I figured I'd try an Amsteel version with it.

The configuration I like the best so far is 1/4" Amsteel tied to each end using tripple fisherman's knot and a 1.5" diameter stainless steel ring to hook the CL through.

I though about using plastic sailing stopper balls but totally don't trust them not to break apart.

The ring in the pictures is not what I'm going to use, it was just a ring I had on hand to prototype it. Also the orange paracord was just for prototyping and easier viewing, I will be using Amsteel to actually kite with.

I'm a bit worried I wont be able to tie the rope close enough to the spreader bar though.

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions or experiences?


stopper balls not trust worthy
 stopper balls not trust worthy  bar_IMG_5054.JPG 
tripple fisherman in orange
 tripple fisherman in orange  bar_IMG_5053.JPG 
tripple fisherman amsteel
 tripple fisherman amsteel  bar_IMG_5056.JPG 
Sample set up
 Sample set up  bar_IMG_5055.JPG 

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ldhr

Since 21 Jul 2009
887 Posts
Hood River
Opinionated



PostWed Sep 27, 17 2:53 pm     Reply with quote

Yours looks great!
Yeah - you might try another type of knot to take out the slack.
Ride it a few hours and then re-tie after it stretches.
or check this out - from Dakine for $12.
www.mackiteboarding.com

Food for thought -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=120&v=qL7p91-D2Is

Ride engine - you pull the rope thru a hole and tie an overhand knot that's too big to slip back thru the hole. It's easy to snug up the rope when all you have to do is tie a simple overhand knot.

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Ho-Toe

Since 30 Apr 2014
95 Posts
thread-killer
 



PostWed Sep 27, 17 3:56 pm    slider Reply with quote

Lookin' good!

You might be happy to note that Amsteel is now available in orange. It costs the same as the gray or blue Amsteel, but since it's safety orange it must be saferů Laughing

Re: terminations, you might consider making a locking splice onto a tiny shackle (like on the newest dynabars) or small ring, then terminate the opposite end with a knot. That way only one knot can slip. And as LDHR suggests, ride it for a sesh or two, then re-tie the knot if the Amsteel seems to have stretched (you might need a marlinspike to help open the tensioned knot).

On my replacement dynabar slider rope, I just tied an overhand knot on each end of the Amsteel, as it merely jams into a small hole in the stainless spreader bar. The more "turns" in the knot (a la your triple[?] fisherman's), the more the rope will stretch as the knot sets.

Inspect it frequently!

An aside: has anybody tried making a doubled-up slider rope by splicing 1/8" Amsteel thru itself, much like Nak's wonderful old post about how to build a new depower line? http://www.nwkite.com/forums/t-31373.html&highlight=

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SalmonSlayer

Since 27 Nov 2005
549 Posts

Addicted



PostWed Sep 27, 17 6:18 pm     Reply with quote

I have used the plastic ball with success. It is also the simplest design too

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wallydog

Since 30 May 2012
148 Posts

Stoked



PostWed Sep 27, 17 7:19 pm     Reply with quote

I have done the double 1/8 amsteel (as Nak described in his build your own de-power rope thread} for the Dynabar slider. Works very well. The loop you make at the end can be stopped with a small shackle like the new dynabar sliders or the old pull safety pin. You can tie the rope with a figure eight and pull the loop end through to the shackle and get it as tight as you want. Double 1/8 doesn't seem to stretch much at all and is a nice firm sliding rope. I would highly recommend figuring out how to do this technique for your sliding rope set ups.

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aksurfer

Since 30 Aug 2010
81 Posts
Anchorage, AK
 



PostWed Sep 27, 17 9:27 pm     Reply with quote

Ive put a bit of super glue in the knot, massaged in with a toothpick. Seems to stretch less and I replace it about every 20 sessions because its fairly cheap.

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wylieflyote

Since 30 Jun 2006
1140 Posts
Puget Sound & Wa. Coast
XTreme Poster



PostThu Sep 28, 17 6:13 am     Reply with quote

Thank You. I too am using an older pair of Nitrous shorts since Foiling took over my life. With your DIY, I might dedicate an old junk spreader to a slider. Not sure if this is helpful to anyone, but last year I had this on a Ride Engine and a CCS bar:
Barton Marine Load Eye

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SalmonSlayer

Since 27 Nov 2005
549 Posts

Addicted



PostThu Sep 28, 17 7:10 am     Reply with quote

If you did not have a spreader bar with a ring sliding on a rope, you could get the giblets squeezed out of you if the kite went into a death spiral. Without the stiff bar, the slider rope would keep twisting until it could twist no more. It is not something you want add to the issues you must deal with during a kitemare. I have hear rumors of this happening with a homemade set up, but I dont know if it has actually ever happened.

I wanted to see how much sliding range I would actually use if the rope went hip to hip. I used the following setup, so the slider rope could not twist tight on me in case of a death spiral. The tube was long enough and the rope was tight enough to prevent rotation.

It turns out that you would not use anymore sliding range than the factory sliding spreader bars provide.


   z slide hook.jpg 
   z flared spreader bar tube.jpg 

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sfbomber

Since 27 Jun 2012
79 Posts

 



PostThu Sep 28, 17 10:58 am     Reply with quote

The amstell will last a lot longer if it is spliced inside itself (double layer). (Highly recommended) [I use it on a pulleybar set up]
I would splice a loop on both ends your amsteel line.
I would use one loop and larkshead directly to one side of the harness.
I would probably have another line of amsteel with a knot and attach that directly to the harness (rather than splicing the loop directly to the harness).
Attach your sliding device, then use the loop and larkshead onto the knot on the other side of the harness.
Check that the larkshead on the knot is synched tight before every launch.
You could even tie an additional back up line between the loop and knot line to make sure they don't separate during a session.
p.s. I wouldn't trust a plastic ball either as I've had them fail.
edit: p.p.s. I have more luck with the holding power of a zeppelin bend than an overhand knot for tying two ropes together (diy chicken loop).

Last edited by sfbomber on Tue Oct 10, 17 11:57 am; edited 1 time in total

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Slappysan

Since 13 Jun 2012
181 Posts

Stoked



PostThu Sep 28, 17 12:06 pm     Reply with quote

So after a bit more research I think I'm going to try wrapping the CL of my Cab bar around a Wichard 20/14 thimble directly on the rope. I read that it wedges in to the 14mm thimble well.

I tied the tripple fisherman as close as I could then loaded it up and wasn't too happy with how loose it was, just over 2 inches from the bar. How far out does the rope usually stretch on the Ride Engine bars?

I might have to switch to a plastic stopper and figure 8 on one of the ends, can anyone recommend a super strong plastic stopper ball?

Doing some tests it seems like my manual swivel on my cab bar isn't going to work one handed with a rope slider which is kind of a big deal for me.

I'm also considering making the plunge to Fireball.


Too far out?
 Too far out?  bar_IMG_5058.JPG 
Wichard 20/14 thimble pic found on internet
 Wichard 20/14 thimble pic found on internet  Wichard_2014_12237859.jpg 

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ldhr

Since 21 Jul 2009
887 Posts
Hood River
Opinionated



PostThu Sep 28, 17 12:18 pm     Reply with quote

I have over 200 sessions on my Ride Engine slider.
I don't use any rings or shackles.
My chicken loop attaches straight to the rope - the way Ride Engine and Slingshot recommend. Take their advice - they have feedback from team riders who kite 200+ days per year.
I see no signs of wear on my chicken loop.
I replaced the rope this season - not because it was worn but because it only cost $7.00 and it seemed like good insurance.


Rope is 1" from the harness.

P.S. - the older Cabrinha bars did not allow the chicken loop to open.
I used a small oval that had a screw with a screw type opening.


   oval loop.jpg 

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eric

Since 13 Jan 2006
1157 Posts

XTreme Poster



PostThu Sep 28, 17 12:41 pm     Reply with quote

^^^

Same here. I have many sessions on Ride Engine and SS chicken loop. No wear on either. I can see using a safe shackle to avoid connecting the CL safety every time, but a sliding ring, no need for me.

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aksurfer

Since 30 Aug 2010
81 Posts
Anchorage, AK
 



PostThu Sep 28, 17 7:13 pm     Reply with quote

Same here, shortened my chicken loop a bit (Ben Wilson equip) and connect right to my Ride Engine sliding rope bar. No wear on chicken loop and replace rope once in a while when it looks like it needs it.

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daveS

Since 23 Jul 2007
70 Posts

 



PostWed Oct 04, 17 6:08 pm     Reply with quote

My luck hasn't been as good with direct connect to the ride engine slider. I had a fair amount of chicken loop wear after a couple of months and added a 1 inch stainless ring to the system. Also, take heed the warning to inspect regularly. i broke my ride engine line last year in Maui which led to a long swim and last week my overhand knot pulled through the opening on the bar ending a fine Rufus session. i'm gonna start running a second line as backup

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