SWELL PERIOD explained

boardrider · Since 05 Apr 2006 1034 Posts Ventura, CA XTreme Poster

Good Surfline article on SWELL PERIOD.

http://www.surfline.com/surfology/surfology_forecast2.cfm

Explains how swell period affects wave energy and shape. Explains sholing and bathymetry - Why rips are worse etc.

Helped me understand the concept a little better anyway.

C Johnson · Since 17 Apr 2009 854 Posts Seattle Opinionated

thanks for sharing! that's a great writeup!

marybear · Since 06 Aug 2007 75 Posts thehood

surfed a big swell 1.5m at 18sec i was constantly paddling only to see the ocean rises and some beauties rolling in i definitely felt the speed and volume when i duck dived and at times the bearhugging technique kept me with my board, there would be a flat moment at 18sec then more dark faces would appear on the backside, more sexy wave, damn i need a turbo engine on the back of my board or bigger guns for paddling ciao de chile Shocked

boardrider · Since 05 Apr 2006 1034 Posts Ventura, CA XTreme Poster

Yeah - It's weird - You can really 'feel' the extra energy in the water with those long period swells (especially if paddling). Def. alot more water moving around.

1.5m @ 18 sec must have had some NICE faces Twisted Evil

genek · Since 21 Jul 2006 2165 Posts East Po KGB

Thanks Chris! Great article. No wonder those swells in West OZ that were 16s+ period were so hard to keep up with even at top speed.