Kite bridle making?

Anthony · Since 07 Oct 2008 362 Posts Salem Obsessed **CGKA Member**

Any body have any suggestions for building kite bridle lines? Web sites? Videos? I need to replace a few lines.

Thanks

Anthony

Nak · Sun Apr 12, 15 9:52 pm

Shouldn't be too hard to make a bridle line, assuming you know how long it should be. That would be the kicker. You could look at the other side to measure the twin to the line you need. The problem with that would be all the other lines are stretched, the new line would stretch just a bit over time. Also, if the replacement line didn't match the other lines as far as inches stretched per pound of force, you might get some funky handling. I'd really recommend a new bridle... If it's beat up enough to need some new components then a new one would probably do wonders for your kite.

If you're set on making these, search my posts for "Making a lineset" It'll show you how to splice eyelets in to lines. Get some amsteel line in the same diameter. My guess is it'll be the one that's just a bit tinier than 1/8". 7/64" I think??? That's just a guess, make sure you match it up to what you have. I did some tests once, it's really amazing what a tiny bit difference in stretch can do to a kite. It can make a vast difference in how the kite handles.

Anthony · Since 07 Oct 2008 362 Posts Salem Obsessed **CGKA Member**

I have the older Rev's which are notorious for P-line and A3 line twisting which makes it shorter. I do have the factory specs for the lines.

Sasquatch · Since 09 Mar 2005 2058 Posts PNW Bigfoot

Nak · Mon Apr 13, 15 8:58 am

Which rev? I think I have a new 11m Rev2 bridle around here somewhere... It's yours if I can find it. And yeah, the Revs were a bit tough on their bridles. I remember replacing the bridle on my 11m. I had thought the kite was just bagged out. After the new bridle it performed like a new kite again!

Anyways, If you can find the proper line it should be easy to splice up a new one since you have the specs. I'd replace the same line on both sides. That should keep any issues to a minimum.

Nak · Mon Apr 13, 15 9:03 am

I just looked at the SS site... looks like the Rev bridles are no more. However, I also found lot's of misc bridle parts. I'm sure that would all be the same line in all of their bridles. You could buy one of those, making sure to order something long. Then splice one end to match your length. That would eliminate the chance of one line having different stretch characteristics than the rest of the bridle. Or you could try the 7/64" amsteel and see how it works for you.

Anthony · Since 07 Oct 2008 362 Posts Salem Obsessed **CGKA Member**

I bought a bridle set the other day for the 11m Rev1. It was $70+ for the P-lines and A3 lines. I really need to make my own. I have 4 other kites that will need it. I have build my windsurfer boards for years and made my own board bags. Have an industrial straight stretch. I just need to understand what is the best method of splicing the dyneema together. I figured I would just buy a spool of it.

dangler · Since 26 Feb 2006 1744 Posts WINDY SPOTS XTreme Poster

Bridle lines are typically just sewn loops. you need a zig zag, not necessarily an industrial, mom's dressmaker works. I've got tons of bridle line off of dead kites. hit me up if you can't find any new.

rhorton1 · Since 25 Oct 2012 36 Posts SoCal

I replaced the P-lines on a 9m and 11m REV a couple years back. Not because of noticeable stretch but because the current lines were fraying. I used 7/64" Amsteel. Make sure you pre-stretch the line before you start splicing. I used 4" spliced and then lock stitched loops at each end of the line. 7/64" is about the biggest size that will easily slide through the bridle pulleys.... and it took some pulling and grunting to get the pulleys on over the splice.

Piano wire or guitar string makes a good fid for line that size. Took maybe about 2 hours to make 5 P-lines (one was a screw-up).

Anthony · Since 07 Oct 2008 362 Posts Salem Obsessed **CGKA Member**

I am almost there. I am going to buy Jerry Brown 800# line. If I wanted to what and where would I buy sleeving?

dangler · Since 26 Feb 2006 1744 Posts WINDY SPOTS XTreme Poster

use the sleeves from the bridle you are replacing

Anthony · Since 07 Oct 2008 362 Posts Salem Obsessed **CGKA Member**

I have experimented and finally determined that using the Brummel Splices with 7/64" Amsteel would be my methodology for making bridle lines. The tools are all homemade from Ace Hardware. Fid is small copper tube and line puller is small steel wire bent with pliers. It has taken many hours to develop the empirical data to determine line lengths with consistent markings(lengths) and end tapering. I will post the final results when I am done. I like the idea of a no sewing required splice that can be done at remote locations.

How much pre-stretching is required? I want to keep stretch to a minimum I have done some pre-stretching with the pickup truck. This is 1600 lb line that is probably like 1400 lb line after the install of splices.

jperry · Since 07 Nov 2008 188 Posts Stoked

Find out the length you need add 5cm on each side. Measure it ou in mm. Triple step you lose about 2 to 3 mm reg zig zag 1-2mm. The extra cm you are gonna use to see your loop.

Matt V · Fri Jan 01, 16 5:52 pm

Be careful with pre-stretching lightly loaded dyneema/spectra lines. I have found that lines that are oversized for the repeated load they recieve actually shrink, not stretch. This seems to go for any line that is only loaded up to 10-20% of it's breaking strength. Steering lines vs front lines are a perfect example of this. When I first started out making my own line sections for depower lines and bridals, I stretched everything. BIG MISTAKE! I threw out lots of lines that shrunk pretty badly. Now I only do the flying/steering lines and yes, the steering lines do shrink but that can be handled with pigtails if it is too bad.

If you stretch a lightly loaded bridal line, it may shrink over the day back and throw the length off.

Anybody know why this is? Is it long term elastic stretch? Dirt accumulation in the lines? Garden gnomes?

jperry · Since 07 Nov 2008 188 Posts Stoked

Sleeved lines with straight fiber inside? Or braided? Iv experienced this with braided lines but not sleeved with non braided fibers. But it could be the stuff I'm getting. I know spectra and dyneema creep.

jperry · Since 07 Nov 2008 188 Posts Stoked

Ha I guess reading the whole thing helps.

What grade of amsteal are you using? Sk??

What section are you replacing?

What's the braid count?

Higher braid equals more stretch. Less braided equals less stretch. In general. The more it's braided the
More there is to open and close thus the shrinking and stretching part.

Grade affects the creep iv always wondered if after it creeps if over time it goes back.
Not paid attention to this. But always assumed it creeped and stayed a creep.

Honestly I'd stretch it at 500-800 pounds for like 30 min splice it. Stretch it again with your hands and feet. And it should be alright.

Matt V · Fri Jan 01, 16 7:45 pm

With my Jerry Brown linesets, I always wait 15min to a half an hour and remeasure after a high percentage stretch. You can actually watch the slow elastic stretch rebound with dyneema. Pretty scary that if you make the splice immediately after stretching on one line, and wait on the other line, you will wind up with 2 lines centimeters off. Time seems to be critical after the high load stretch.

Again, that is why I do not stretch any bridle or depower line.

The only lines I will stretch are flying linesets (front and back) and center line to "Y" point (takes full load of front lines, either 1/8 amsteel or 7/64th amsteel)