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Low-tech sliding connection
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Post new topic   Reply to topic    Northwest Kiteboarding -> Gorge / Portland / Oregon Coast
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MTBob

Since 11 Jan 2013
10 Posts

 



PostThu Dec 19, 13 8:21 am     Reply with quote

Thanks kitezilla-it works great for me. I like simplistic stuff but it's also VERY functional and comfortable. My sailmaker guy charges me 10 bucks to sew one up and I replace the webbing every two seasons or so. They're 4 layers thick. With my Dakine Pyro I can lengthen or shorten the straps on the harness sides and then make longer or shorter "spreader straps" to adjust how far the thing slides around me.

I'm not following you on the ""loop" of rope in a shackle" thing though. What difference does it make if I have my shackle or carabiner hooked to the Amsteel loop instead of a ring? Just more clutter. There's still going to be a metal to rope connection. That 1/4 inch Amsteel loop will last for years hooked to my carabiner. At about 5 bucks I'll probably replace the c/l rope once a year though.
I might build my little chicken loop around a large (like 2") stainless grommet-like what you'd see in the head or tack or clew of a sail-not to make anything stronger but just to keep the loop open for ease of hooking in and out.

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kitezilla

Since 22 Jun 2006
453 Posts
gorge
Obsessed



PostThu Dec 19, 13 3:29 pm     Reply with quote

MTBob wrote:


...I'm not following you on the ""loop" of rope in a shackle" thing though. What difference does it make if I have my shackle or carabiner hooked to the Amsteel loop instead of a ring?...

I might build my little chicken loop around a large (like 2") stainless grommet-like ...


.......................
Here is a link to a 2003 Kiteforum post discussing the subject of quick release shackles and the need for Metal-to-metal contact. The logic for the precaution is because ropes can fray, fold, pinch and twist, and the possibility exists that the shackle can get stuck on the rope.... not the biggest risk, but one that can be eliminated with a ring.



http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=always%20connect%20a%20quick%20release%20shackle%20to%20a%20ring&source=web&cd=6&cad=rja&ved=0CFcQFjAF&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kiteforum.com%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ft%3D5202&ei=O3-zUqrkBcTfoASm74GQAQ&usg=AFQjCNFBOAtJbrMvOE2szHe4h402QRiXhQ&sig2=ED6Jp6wZ3kxDia0EVxMDKA&bvm=bv.58187178,d.cGU

...And speaking of rings... watch out that you don't use a size where your fingers can get caught in it... someone else on this forum may want to comment on this "what are the chances" situation. There is always the temtation to want to hook your fingers in a ring to pull it into position... Don't do it.

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C.Lee

Since 02 Apr 2012
44 Posts
Southern Idaho/The Gorge
 



PostThu Dec 19, 13 5:54 pm    ??? Reply with quote

Any idea where that last video was filmed?
_________________
Rig Big.

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surfer

Since 02 Aug 2012
51 Posts
westport, wa
 



PostThu Dec 19, 13 6:15 pm    ??? Reply with quote

so school me here, I was thnking the better in the waves you get You will want to unhook? The slider makes you not need to unhook? or is it just unhooking out Shocked

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demo243

Since 16 Dec 2013
21 Posts

 



PostThu Dec 19, 13 7:14 pm     Reply with quote

The slider removes most of the need to unhook- or so I gather.

The biggest problem with unhooking in the waves is the conditions need to be right... and for most of us, we dont get the chance to ride those conditions all the time. The slider frees up ones movements and allows you to surf more naturally with out having to worry about unhooking. Its also safer in crowded breaks as well since you still have alot more control over your kite and your movements. I cant imagine trying to ride Waddell unhooked.. so many people coming in and out it would be a mess. Also if you get rocked by a wave you still have a chance at keeping your kite in the air. If your unhooked better hold on tight other wise your kites going to be in the water... if your hooked in you can still "control" the kite even when being washing machined

I have wanted to get good at unhooking, just never had the patience or conditions to really practice it. When its good I just want to ride.

The freedom of movement helps alot in other aspects of kiting on a surfboard other then riding the waves too. Makes Jibes much easier as it allows for more freedom of movement and makes riding toeside a dream for those who ride strapped... or strapless.

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SalmonSlayer

Since 27 Nov 2005
648 Posts

Addicted

CGKA Member


PostThu Dec 19, 13 7:55 pm     Reply with quote

kitezilla wrote:

...And speaking of rings... watch out that you don't use a size where your fingers can get caught in it... someone else on this forum may want to comment on this "what are the chances" situation. There is always the temtation to want to hook your fingers in a ring to pull it into position... Don't do it.


Embarassed Guilty..I was testing a bar with a metal "CL" ring in combination with a sliding bar, I QR'd the kite and let it hit the ground. I had my middle and index finger holding the CL ring past the 2nd finger joint and I was focusing on slider bar when my kite powered up quickly. It was a big ring, but it still grabbed my fingers. I am still surprised my fingers did not just slip out. Never hold a metal "CL" with your fingers inside of it even if you are not in the process of hooking in.


   Seattle.JPG 

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Ryan

Since 14 Jul 2005
536 Posts
Oregon
Addicted



PostThu Apr 03, 14 12:01 pm    knots Reply with quote

I picked up some spectra and removed the hook from an old bar.

What sort of knots have you guys used to tie off that work well?

How would you recommend determining the length of the spectra used (how tight or loose should it be)?

Lastly, will this work with my CL on the spectra or is a metal on spectra interface prefered to achieve the proper friction and slide/no slide action?

Thanks for any guidance Very Happy

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demo243

Since 16 Dec 2013
21 Posts

 



PostThu Apr 03, 14 1:07 pm     Reply with quote

I have tried a couple variation of knots, and still havent figured out which one is best.

For the most part I just end up tying a square knot at either end and then a safety knot as well.

Keep it as tight as you can because it will stretch and loosen up. If it is too loose it will "notch" and not slide as smooth.

I havent tried CL directly onto the spectra... not sure why I haven't just haven't. I had been using a simple metal ring, but recently I picked up a large sail thimble- it is a bit wider so it slides smoother. The other thing I did on my most recent variation was use a plastic sheathing over the line. Did this for a few reasons- to reduce wear on the line ( my sliding lines were wearing with the metal ring) - to help make a smoother slide since it will not "notch" like a bare line will. Picked up both the sheath idea and the thimble idea from Coleman @ Engine since he does his sliders that way. One of these days I will just get one from him.... Once this harness wears out.

This is about my 3rd variation of my slider set up and so far seems to be the best, just wish I could get the line a bit tighter....

I will mention as well (think I already have...) that these setups make it hard to do a tethered launch since you need to release you CL in order to "hook" in. Although after thinking recently since my north bar is a two line setup into the CL I could probably just clip in above the CL... doesn't allow for a release from the tether though and that scare me.

I would say that if you tether launch often you will probably want to use some sort of locking carabiner or snap shackle as your metal slider this way you don't need to release the CL to "Hook" in. I have seen people use locking climbing carabiners although they tend to be a bit long- looking for a short one myself. I would definitely use a locking biner because unlocked could... could... have the potential to snag a lose line in a crash

Here is a shot of my most recent variation. Works great- cant believe I ever kited waves without one...



Hope this helps!

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SalmonSlayer

Since 27 Nov 2005
648 Posts

Addicted

CGKA Member


PostThu Apr 03, 14 1:15 pm     Reply with quote

I like this method better than tying a knot on the bar end.

You can experiment with the length. The length in this pic is a bit short in my opinion,

You can put the CL right on the rope but it will wear fast. I would use a stainless ring.

Ignore what I have on this sliding rope


   spread (640x301).jpg 

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Ryan

Since 14 Jul 2005
536 Posts
Oregon
Addicted



PostFri Apr 04, 14 6:20 am     Reply with quote

Salmon and Demo,

In your experience, does the bar dig into you at all due to not having the sliding rope placed vertically in the middle of bar, causing it to tilt? Someone had mentioned that was an issue in an earlier post.

Whats your experience?

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demo243

Since 16 Dec 2013
21 Posts

 



PostFri Apr 04, 14 7:11 am     Reply with quote

I have not had any issues with the bar twisting up- but have heard of them.

But I do use the spreader bar hold down strap that is on dakine harnesses.

I remember Engine mentioning something about that and they were tying the bottom of their bars to the pad... but ive never had an issue with that.

The best part about these is they are cheap, so easy to play around with and get suited for your style and preferences.

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SalmonSlayer

Since 27 Nov 2005
648 Posts

Addicted

CGKA Member


PostFri Apr 04, 14 1:04 pm     Reply with quote

demo243 wrote:
I have not had any issues with the bar twisting up- but have heard of them.

But I do use the spreader bar hold down strap that is on dakine harnesses.

I remember Engine mentioning something about that and they were tying the bottom of their bars to the pad... but ive never had an issue with that.

The best part about these is they are cheap, so easy to play around with and get suited for your style and preferences.


The twisting was about the Engine harness design as far as I know. I have an Engine harness and no longer have this issue though. I fixed it by using the Velcro pad cover that come with the harness.

I have NOT experienced twisting with the set up you want to use.

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hilton

Since 15 Aug 2008
787 Posts

Opinionated



PostMon Apr 14, 14 7:06 pm    DaKine Maniac Bar Reply with quote

I just got to try the DaKine Maniac Sliding Spreader Bar.
The design was improved for 2014 and seemed to work really well for me.
It is pretty simple and not too expensive.
Does anyone have any longer term feedback on it?


   dk maniac.jpg 

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MTBob

Since 11 Jan 2013
10 Posts

 



PostMon Apr 21, 14 7:17 am     Reply with quote

That's how my first incarnation looked. I made a similar one years ago by cutting down and re-welding a standard spreader bar. Mine chewed up the webbing pretty quickly and made the spreader bar "stick" when it was sliding so I ended up replacing the hook with a locking 'biner and having my own burly straps sewn up. Looks like they did reinforce the strap a bit...
Is that thing solid?...like flat metal or a bar behind the strap?

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hilton

Since 15 Aug 2008
787 Posts

Opinionated



PostMon Apr 21, 14 5:18 pm     Reply with quote

MTBob wrote:
Is that thing solid?...like flat metal or a bar behind the strap?

I think it has the same tubular bar on the inside, just without the hook.

DaKine sells the replacement webbing for $7, so it shouldn't be a big deal to replace it as necessary.

http://www.dakine.com/p/kite/accessories/maniac-webbing?clr=003

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Post new topic   Reply to topic    Northwest Kiteboarding -> Gorge / Portland / Oregon Coast All times are GMT - 8 Hours
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