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How To: Making a Dual Layer Depower Rope
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Post new topic   Reply to topic    Northwest Kiteboarding -> Gorge / Portland / Oregon Coast
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dwaynej

Since 09 Sep 2013
207 Posts

Stoked

CGKA Member


PostFri Nov 29, 13 7:54 pm     Reply with quote

Thank you! Snagged a Slingshot bar and ordered my Amsteel depower replacement cord this evening.

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dwaynej

Since 09 Sep 2013
207 Posts

Stoked

CGKA Member


PostTue Dec 10, 13 6:36 pm     Reply with quote

Compstick with 20" Bar and 20M Lines + 3M line extensions I can swap out. Only issue is the sliding stopper which I did not attempt to install. All lines stretched and depower out, and bar sits just on top of the chicken loop release. Stopper ball is essentially in the same position as the factory setting.



Thank you!

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Nak

Since 19 May 2005
4199 Posts
Camas
XTreme Poster

CGKA Member


PostWed Dec 11, 13 2:58 pm     Reply with quote

Looks great DwayneJ! I don't re-use the fixed stopper ball. I'm not sure why it's really there, other than to prevent you from trimming to much. Also, the Naish sliding stoppers work great on this line and have the added benefit of being removable or addable at any time. You can pick one up for $10.

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dwaynej

Since 09 Sep 2013
207 Posts

Stoked

CGKA Member


PostWed Dec 11, 13 4:55 pm     Reply with quote

Thanks for the feedback on the Nash sliding stopper ball! For the time being I will go without given the current bar does not have this feature.

- Dwayne

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Jonpnw

Since 22 Jul 2010
1322 Posts
Pacific Northwest
XTreme Poster



PostSat Dec 14, 13 11:46 am    Question Reply with quote

Ready to get my Nak on.

Is the loop around your ring actually single layer? So if you cut your amsteel 16' long and insert it half way with the fid, the dual layer starts "under" the ring ?

Thanks !


   photo(1).JPG 

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Join the Columbia Gorge Water Sports Association. http://gorgewindsurfing.org/

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Nak

Since 19 May 2005
4199 Posts
Camas
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PostSat Dec 14, 13 8:57 pm     Reply with quote

Yeah, the little loop that the caribiner is in is single layer. then yo uhave a bit of single layer at the other end where the inner line ends and the outer line continues. The single layer at that end makes it really easy to feed through hardware components and is cut off after bar assembly.

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Jonpnw

Since 22 Jul 2010
1322 Posts
Pacific Northwest
XTreme Poster



PostSun Dec 15, 13 6:34 pm    Try it on a cold day. Reply with quote

Good way to get warm. Evil or Very Mad

I lost my fid inside the amsteel twice. Tape broke. My amsteel is looking rather worked over. I will keep practicing and get some more for my real one.

Respect to those that nail it on the first try.

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dwaynej

Since 09 Sep 2013
207 Posts

Stoked

CGKA Member


PostTue Dec 17, 13 12:19 pm    Re: Try it on a cold day. Reply with quote

Jonpnw wrote:
Good way to get warm. Evil or Very Mad

Respect to those that nail it on the first try.


If its any consolation, I blew my second attempt and lost the tape inside the line and it was a mess to remove.

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Johnb

Since 02 Aug 2010
494 Posts

Obsessed



PostTue Dec 17, 13 12:36 pm     Reply with quote

I cheated and bought a fid. The rope threads onto the fid and does not come off.

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Jonpnw

Since 22 Jul 2010
1322 Posts
Pacific Northwest
XTreme Poster



PostTue Dec 17, 13 12:57 pm    Fid Reply with quote

John what does your fid look like ? I search for one online and found many different styles. How does the rope thread on to yours ?

Thanks

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Johnb

Since 02 Aug 2010
494 Posts

Obsessed



PostTue Dec 17, 13 1:03 pm     Reply with quote

This is the one I bought:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QJREO4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is hollow with internal threads. I separated and removed about 6 strands then just threaded the fid on to the rope it was very solid.

I would be happy to loan it out if you are close to Vancouver/Camas.

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Aeolus

Since 20 Apr 2010
354 Posts
Gold Beach, OR
OR-SoCo-Aficionado



PostThu Nov 13, 14 10:08 pm     Reply with quote

Shout out to Nak and all others in this thread for the motivation and ideas. I scored some red & blue amsteel which makes me happy in the gear sorting department. Cool I'm using the dark days to tune up some older bars that came to me in rough shape and shine up my others. I've included a photo of the typical failure point on my slingshot trim lines. The through-bar fitting wears the outer layer of the doubled up section on a stock trim line.
I pay a lot of attention to the sharpness of the bar where the trim line passes through. I routinely polish those areas down so they don't become too knife like. Makes a world of difference on trim line life.
I went ahead and renewed all my clamcleats also. You'll have to do some easy hand tapping if you buy a bag of clamcleats from a sailing shop. Worth it if you need to do several bars.

Thanks again folks


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monk_e_boy

Since 09 Dec 2014
2 Posts

New Member



PostTue Dec 09, 14 3:37 pm     Reply with quote

Aeolus wrote:

I went ahead and renewed all my clamcleats also. You'll have to do some easy hand tapping if you buy a bag of clamcleats from a sailing shop. Worth it if you need to do several bars.


Hi guys, I just replaced the depower line on my compstick. The new line slips through the clamcleat a few inches at a time. This powers the kite up unexpectedly.

Not sure if the line is too slippery or if the cleat has worn a little (it doesn't look worn)

Do you think I could make the depower rope a little thicker by inserting some line in the core? Would this help?

Do you think the cleat may be worn? Can I resharpen the teeth on the current cleat? Or if I replace it - what do you mean by hand tapping? Tap a thread into a new cleat? What size is the hole?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, I am a little under-employed at the moment, so a new bar is out of the question Shocked

Thanks Smile Very Happy

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Aeolus

Since 20 Apr 2010
354 Posts
Gold Beach, OR
OR-SoCo-Aficionado



PostTue Dec 09, 14 9:45 pm     Reply with quote

monk:

I would say that sharpening the cleat is a marginal idea...bordering on bad. If you were kiting some remote location and its the only cleat you had then maybe.... but throw down for a new cleat. They do wear to a point that the cleating action is compromised.

If you replaced the line with a factory made one you should have no slipping. If you used Nak's method here, the cleating action is improved with no slipping.

most retailers that stock slingshot can supply you with a cleat
windance has them for instance:
http://www.windance.com/Slingshot-CompStick-Trim-Cleat-KBKP3738/
You'll have to inquire whether they are a drop in replacement (I suspect they are with the mounting hole already drilled and tapped). Out of the factory those clam cleats do not have a 4mm x 0.7(pitch) tapped hole to accept a countersunk (flat) head stainless steel fastener 4mm x 0.7 x 16mm long. I refreshed 6 bars so it made sense to purchase a tap and make my own threaded holes in a bag of cleats (10 pcs) that cost about $4/each pc. (sea-dog.com) plus $7 for a tap. I had the drills needed for the job.

The clam cleat (CL712) specs are here:
http://www.clamcleat.com/uploads/cleat_installation_pdfs/CL712_Installation_Drg.pdf

The cleat is designed for a line diameter of 1/8" to 1/4" so take that into consideration if modding your setup. Nak's method with 1/8" amsteel gives you a finished double layer line that measures just under 0.25". I'm storm-chasing on the coast lately with my "new" bars... Nak's setup is solid. I'm getting better cleat holding/release action. Wicked low pressure setting up now for tomorrow & Thursday...should be interesting. Twisted Evil

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monk_e_boy

Since 09 Dec 2014
2 Posts

New Member



PostWed Dec 10, 14 4:03 pm     Reply with quote

Thanks! (wish the forum had a 'like' button or similar Smile )

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Ho-Toe

Since 30 Apr 2014
231 Posts
pissed-off science guy like Bill Nye
CO2 quantifier & upwelling specialist



PostSun May 20, 18 9:58 pm    (bump) Reply with quote

Most useful thread ever Very Happy

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